The backache-inducing bench seating at the NewGen showspace is no joke. That’s why, when a row of benches at Tolu Coker’s fall 2026 were interrupted by a sole white lawn chair topped with a satin pillow, guests figured something was afoot.
The seat was for none other than King Charles III, who ascended to his makeshift throne surrounded by fashion royalty, including Stella McCartney, Seán McGirr, and Martine Rose.
Coker, a former beneficiary of the King’s Trust, previously the Prince’s Trust, told WWD backstage that the collection was an homage to Mozart Street, where she grew up in London, and everyone that’s supported her along the way.
“Graduating from NewGen is a new chapter and I was thinking about what it is I wanted to say to the world. It’s that it takes a village,” the LVMH Prize finalist explained. “That’s been the village that’s held and incubated me, and it didn’t feel right to do it any other way than to give respect to that.”
Opening with a live performance from Little Simz, looks celebrated Britain’s cultural diversity. The nation’s style staples — sharp silhouettes paired with heritage materials like wool, tartan and houndstooth — were reinvigorated with shocks of color and reclaimed satin, a nod to her British, Nigerian and Yoruba identity.
“This is Britain. It’s colorful, it’s glorious. It’s a nod to immigration. It’s a nod to the communities that built that,” she said.
Tailoring was a true highlight. Cropped jackets with puffed sleeves, long overcoats, and trousers made from British wool fit like a dream. Corsetry detailing also stood out, with a peplum bustier, various dresses, and flouncy miniskirts all enticingly well-structured. They paired well with the heels supplied by Manolo Blahnik, which also dressed Little Simz and the band members.
While overflowing with star power, ultimately it was a collection rooted in community. Those snugly fit pieces were equally power suits, armor and a material hug, and signaled the start of a promising new chapter for the brand.
Even the king seemed impressed.