A few blizzards aren’t all that have taken Manhattan by storm this winter — the city that never sleeps just saw a particularly powerful New York Fashion Week roll through. And it was full of fall/winter trends from detailed tailoring, to neutral palettes and more.
Here are some highlights:
Marc Jacobs snuck in early with a show that was as much a retrospective of his work (and its many influences) as it was a presentation of new looks. As always, he brought his humor, wit and boldness, and celebs from Sofia Coppola to Nicky Hilton were there for all of it. From the clean silhouettes of structured skirts to the oversized tops played off of pencil skirts, it was equal parts retro and playful, and thoroughly modern as a result.
Among the other first shows, as always, was Michael Kors, whose legacy brand turned 45 this year. But no one in the revved-up crowd (that included everyone from Mary J. Blige and Uma Thurman to Dakota Fanning) is getting tired of him yet. At the Metropolitan Opera House they thrilled to the glam evening pieces he sent out —like swirling full-length fishtail silk skirts in rich garnet; corseted tuxedo smoking jackets over long matching pencil skirts — as much as the day looks: camel cashmere turtlenecks with matching silk skirts and furs; and minimalist sleeveless wool midi day dresses in a brilliant power red, paired with opera-length gloves.
On the heels of that came Calvin Klein, who’s in the midst of having a big cultural moment thanks to FX’s new show “Love Story: John F. Kennedy Jr. & Carolyn Bessette” — she was a publicist for Klein in the ‘90s, and wore and popularized many of the designer’s minimalist looks of the time. So the crowd (which included Dakota Johnson and Lily Collins) expected nods to that, and creative director Veronica Leoni delivered. She sent out understated, button-down black shirt-and-trouser sets; clean-lined trench coats; structured beige overcoats as well as looser wrap versions cinched tight at the waist — all in the same neutral palette Bessette adored.
Nearly everyone was waiting to see what would happen at Proenza Schouler. This year’s show spotlit the brand’s new creative director Rachel Scott (formerly of Diotima, her own creation), who made a debut that was nothing short of triumphant, thanks to practical-yet-creative tailoring and wearable everyday beauty. Previous design duo Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough have moved on to Loewe, and Scott put the focus on loads of midi dresses and skirts paired with peplum jackets; cream-and-beige ruched houndstooth dresses easily worn day or night; and asymmetrical daytime knit sweaters — all of it sporting no shortage of details like buttons along waists and pant hems and exposed seams, fringed hems, with contrasting textures that were sometimes soft and streamlined and sometimes hefty wools.
Over the last decade, Khaite has become one of New York Fashion Week’s biggest names, with a huge following. Designer Catherine Holstein likes to make a big and bold statement at her shows (she loves black-on-black, and that made came up a lot in this collection). This time her commentary was on the value and authenticity of art — which she expressed through pieces like velvet and leather pants matched with sheer blousons; lacy dresses paired with full-length opera gloves; and knee-length frocks doubled up at the hem with thick ruffles.
And for all the black-on-black and love for neutrals in the shows this winter, there was still Ralph Lauren, rolling out his amped-up luxurious version of that in richer hues, and through a more glam lens than he sometimes takes. His interpretation of American style took on the notion of adventure for modern women this season (Anne Hathaway and Lana Del Rey were front row for it), and the tone was set by a runway laid with Persian rugs.
Velvet amethyst miniskirts beneath coffee-hued tweed jackets were some of the first looks out of the gate; silver button-down blouses set with men’s ties and camel suiting; tailored jackets got paired with luminous floral skirts; ankle-length burgundy tapestried capes; leopard vests under bomber jackets; belted animal skins over eveningwear; and woolen glen plaid shawls layered over sequined and fringed evening tops and olive trousers.
Not a boring look in the bunch — and a reason to look forward to cool weather again, even if we all may be done with this winter at the moment.
