Huishan Zhang seemed to be making a subtle analogy to China’s current state by looking at the afterglow of Italy’s La Dolce Vita era in the late 1960s.
For fall 2026, he envisioned a wardrobe for “a diva who refuses to dim,” he said. “She is no ingénue. She’s the last witness to a vanishing golden age, holding her ground as the world speeds ahead.”
Her wardrobe acts like armor with controlled and well cut tailoring, as well as sculptural gowns that championed the idea that inner beauty is just as important.
Cue the sheer red dress with an exaggerated peplum and X‑ray transparency that proudly revealed its inner corsetry. Zhang said it showcases the brand’s China-based couture-level craftsmanship: every seam as clean on the inside as on the surface, and as light as it looked.
The use of feathers, a Huishan Zhang signature, made its return after a three‑year pause, appearing as intricate inserts over stretch sequinned gowns, supported by elastic, body‑hugging corsets, another couture-inspired technique that delivered cinched lines without punishment.
Zhang also had fun with day-to-night ensembles in fil coupé jacquard, faux‑croc leather, and vegan furs, channelling Italian high society with none of the guilt or price tags. Another material consideration that showcased his know-how was the use of wrinkle‑resistant fabrics in evening numbers.
“I don’t want to embarrass our customer when she’s sitting down, she has lines on her tummy. I have been working so much with our suppliers to make sure even our duchess satin has a certain elasticity in it,” he said.