At the Claridge’s ballroom, Conner Ives envisioned a party before the peril, just like “Cabaret.”
There wasn’t a direct political message on the runway like “Protect the Dolls” this time, but he did mention “F–k ICE. F–k the dismantling of democracy. F–k fragile male ego,” in the show notes.
The show itself was a protest and a stage for hope, opening with Ives’ muse Tish Weinstock and closing with “Pose” star Dominique Jackson donning a bridal ensemble.
The designer’s partner Max and their seven-month-old dog Rex also made their runway debuts, walking alongside Ives’ genderfluid friends sporting embellished jeans, tailored jackets, and dresses for “bad b—-es only,” quipped Ives backstage.
He also introduced men’s looks rooted in personal style, which complemented the electric mix of chinoiserie, preppiness, and fondness for silk scarves that he is known for.
Narrative aside, the fact that Ives was able to do two shows a year means his demi-couture-meets-accessibility approach is gaining ground. The brand sells slogan Ts and rugby shirts as well as fulfills bespoke orders for beautifully embroidered piano shawl gowns, and vintage fur and silk satin repurposed coats, as seen on Kim Cattrall, who sat front row next to Stephen Jones.
“This season was a focus on doing what we’ve done well. That [high-low] split is really important to me because it feels very contemporary. Our demi-couture has been doing really well. I want to give that clientele something more to buy into, but also just for the love of clothes,” he said.