Fresh off dressing Erykah Badu, London-based designer Leo Prothmann has hit another major milestone with the debut of his Fall/Winter 2026 collection, “CABAÑA.” The presentation marks the label’s first appearance on the official London Fashion Week schedule and he arrived with a completely recalibrated energy.
Forget your standard cold-weather gear or what you think you know about Prothmann’s practice. Instead of bracing for winter, he turned up the heat. The collection was sparked by a secluded trip to San José del Pacífico, Mexico, celebrating his tenth anniversary with his partner. While there, he became obsessed with the rich colors of the landscapes and architecture. Fortunately for us, he carried them home and let them erupt.
The color story of the collection ranges from earthy tones like mud and forest green, to vibrant teals and mustard. The mood hinges on architectural structures that appear to collapse with grace, garments that begin rigid and then yield to the body. The outerwear, in particular, is irresistible; modular quilted leather parkas and sweeping morning capes constructed from offcut leather strips. Prothmann designs the kind of coats that you want to make your whole personality.
Elsewhere, the brand’s signature shell forms return in a brand new expression. These technically demanding pieces are referred to as cages and feature internal boning to maintain their shape before yielding to movement. he caged eveningwear is cut from a single spiral of leather, each strip painstakingly placed. Prothmann calls them “couture furniture,” objects as much as garments… and the time investment shows.
As for collaborations, Prothmann expanded the brand’s design footprint by connecting with Dr. Martens to rework the Jadon boot as cargo-pocketed hiking legwarmer that is both waterproof and breathable. He shared with us that he made the boot he wished he had while hiking in Mexico.
The collection also introduces limited-edition resin sunglasses designed with Cubitts and sculptural and slightly irregular jewellery by Ollivion which perfectly completed the styling.
For more on LFW, check out our favorite shows and presentation recap.