3 min readLondon style is all about upending tradition, and at London Fashion Week this season, designers revisited the classics—with some canny tweaks. Classic prints like plaids and florals were interpreted in new ways, while traditional tailoring evolved with unexpected cuts and techniques. Black-and-white dressing was reimagined, while bold hues of blue quickly became this season’s newest accent color. Even though some notable names such as Dilara Findikoglu and Roksanda were absent from the catwalk, this season hardly felt diminished, and designers (old and new) managed to bring the excitement.
Here are eight need-to-know trends to know from London Fashion Week.
Winter Plaids
Plaid managed to make its return again this season with a sense of renewed authority. The print was refreshed with unexpected colors, exaggerated scales, and modern silhouettes. At Toga and Burberry, we saw the traditional tartan draped onto outerwear and suiting, whereas at Erdem and Maximilian Raynor, the classic print was mixed with floral patterns and embroidery.
Frigid Florals
Florals aren’t often synonymous with the winter season. However, the colorful print managed to make its presence known this season. At Emilia Wickstead and Patrick McDowell, flower motifs appeared in more subtle interpretations, layered on dresses and skirts. Others approached the trend more literally, such as Daniel Del Valle of The Vxlley, who drew on his sculpture background for a piece that incorporated an actual vase of blooms.
Black and White Pairings
When it comes to styling, you can really never go wrong with pairing black and white together. Designers managed to exemplify that idea this season by layering their pieces in this classic monochrome combination. Erdem and Mithridate took a more stylized approach, layering the colors together within separate pieces. For others, such as Toga and Emilia Wickstead, the two shades were actually pieced and blocked together in one garment.
Case of The Blues
Black and white didn’t completely dominate the runways. Multiple shades of blue also found their place across the catwalks, from saturated cobalts to more muted, deeper navy tones. Edeline Lee and Tolu Coker took a bolder approach, using cobalt hues to make a statement, while Joseph and Burberry leaned into deeper shades of classic navy.
Sheer Confidence
Much like florals, sheer materials tend to be reserved for spring. But several designers this season (Simone Rocha, Pauline Dujancourt) opted for light and airy fabrications. Even in collections rooted in outerwear and dense materials, these sheer pieces managed to balance out any heaviness.
Delicate Romance
With Frankenstein and Wuthering Heights gaining so much attention on screen, it’s no surprise that 18th-century dressing made its appearance on the runways this season. With cinched waists and lace details, designers such as Simone Rocha and Dreaming Eli brought their own version of soft romance to the catwalk.
Twisted Tailoring
Traditional tailoring took on a whole new meaning this season as designers revisited what it looks like to craft a classic suit. Strict rules were loosened in favor of exploring construction and finishes. At Erdem and Toga, tailoring was deconstructed with intention, e.g. exposed linings and open seams. Others, such as Simone Rocha and Conner Ives, reimagined the classic black suit and focused on updating its details with exposed grommets and curved hems.
Heavy Metal
Metallics emerged this season as a key textural trend, bringing a luminous sheen to the runways. To create this effect, designers used a variety of materials, such as sequins, crystals, and metallic lamé, adding another dimension of shine to their pieces.