Friday, March 20

The Fabric of Fashion Innovation


Japan’s manufacturing sector carries a long tradition built upon craftsmanship, discipline and a deep cultural spirit of continuous improvement. In today’s rapidly evolving environment, where digital technology and innovation are becoming increasingly important, how do you define manufacturing for your company? What does manufacturing mean for Leon today?

When we speak about traditional Japanese manufacturing, often referred to as monozukuri, we are discussing much more than the simple act of producing goods. It represents a philosophy shaped by decades, sometimes centuries, of accumulated experience. It emphasizes responding sincerely to client needs, refining quality through devotion to craft and embodying the kaizen mentality of continuous improvement. This spirit has long been Japan’s competitive strength. However, society is transforming. Digital tools and the ability to visualize processes have become essential elements of modern manufacturing. For us, manufacturing now means creating genuine value for our clients while ensuring brands remain profitable in an increasingly challenging apparel landscape. Profitability is not merely a desirable outcome. It is a fundamental responsibility.

This is what led us to develop VDM, our new model that integrates digital technology with artificial intelligence. The Japanese apparel market is highly competitive and margins are low. Ten years ago, we began introducing digital systems to help clients reduce unnecessary costs. Over the past two years, artificial intelligence has advanced at extraordinary speed. By merging our decade of digital foundation with AI, we developed VDM. VDM supports the entire value chain, from product planning and pattern making to photoshoot production, promotional materials, model creation and merchandising. Transitioning these processes to digital and AI drastically reduces cost. For instance, a brand with annual sales of around thirty million dollars can cut expenses by approximately one million dollars. This creates a profound improvement in operating profit margins. At the same time, we never forget that human creativity remains essential. Only people can imagine new futures and drive innovation. Digital tools remove inefficiency, but it is human insight that gives birth to new ideas.

 

You mentioned digital transformation and artificial intelligence. Could you explain more specifically how these technologies are used through VDM? For example, how have processes like planning and design changed?

Certainly. A clear example is the AI generated models we developed, which were featured last year in WWD Japan. These models exist entirely in the digital realm and represent a step toward metaverse based product presentation. Digital technology allows tremendous speed. Leon is unique because we are not only a design studio but also a pattern making company. In Japan, pattern making is a highly specialized craft. It cannot be done by just anyone. We began digitizing patterns ten years ago and now hold more than ten thousand pattern bodies. This archive allows us to create new garments with exceptional efficiency. Work that once required two staff members for three days can now be completed by one person in about an hour.

This efficiency reduces cost dramatically. Pattern work that traditionally required a substantial budget can now be done for one third of the price. Although our internal cost is even lower, we charge roughly half of traditional rates to remain fair to our clients. Our AI models add another layer of value. We create these models free of charge for our VDM clients. They involve no licensing issues, can be used indefinitely and can be tailored to match the exact image of each brand. We also generate promotional materials, so once we receive the product information, we can provide everything a brand needs for marketing.

The number of physical samples is also greatly reduced, which supports sustainability and reduces waste. Using our digital data, brands can even conduct pre order sales online before production begins. This strengthens merchandising and reduces inventory risk because brands can identify demand early based on color, style and engagement. A key advantage is that our garments originate from real pattern data. Many companies create AI visuals, but very few can produce digital assets grounded in precise pattern construction. Because of our pattern making expertise and our archive of data accumulated over ten years, we can offer something almost no other company can replicate.

Our system also enables instant visualization. When a client shows us a reference image, we can generate both the visual and the underlying pattern immediately. If you adjust the element on the left side, the pattern on the right updates simultaneously, and vice versa. From that data, real mass production can begin without delay. For context, commissioning an AI modeling system from a specialized company often costs more than three thousand dollars. We provide this entire capability free of charge to VDM clients because it lowers barriers and accelerates adoption. We also use AI to create realistic motion videos. These require no photoshoots. If you did not know they were AI generated, you might believe they were filmed in real life.

 

Do you also use AI to generate recommendations, such as suggesting products or styles based on past data?

Yes. AI is extremely powerful when analyzing historical information. We use AI to extract insights and patterns from past performance. However, AI alone cannot imagine the future. Future trends are shaped through human creativity. We combine AI’s analytical ability with human vision to create new proposals for our clients.

 

Your system seems to lower the barriers to entry in the apparel industry. Does this mean that people with no apparel design background have begun approaching you?

Yes, that is exactly what is happening. Many traditional apparel companies still rely on methods that require large design teams, extensive photoshoots and heavy investment. Technology companies and new entrants who want to launch a brand often lack these resources. When they collaborate with us, they can bring a brand to life without having designers or a promotional team.

Previously, they would not know what the product looked like until a physical sample arrived. Now they can see it immediately. This allows people with no apparel experience to make decisions quickly. As a result, we receive increasing inquiries from companies outside the apparel industry. We also design clothing for game characters in major gaming companies. They realized that we produce designs faster, more economically and with higher precision.


Crafted with precision. Worn with pride


Are international brands expressing interest in your technology?

Yes, very much. We receive design commissions from major companies. We will also meet with another company from China tomorrow.

However, we do not want to expand too quickly. We believe quality should never be compromised. We prefer to wait until systems are fully refined before scaling internationally, even though demand is strong.

 

Your AI models appear incredibly realistic. What differentiates your models from others?

The foundation is our pattern data. Most companies produce AI visuals that look realistic but are not connected to real pattern structures. We are both an apparel manufacturer and a professional pattern making company. Over more than ten years, we have created a database of tens of thousands of digital pattern bodies and refined our methodology. This depth of expertise cannot be imitated quickly.

 

Many apparel companies struggle with labor shortages and high costs. How does your technology help address these issues?

The Japanese apparel industry spends enormous amounts of money on recruitment because companies believe that without more staff, they cannot innovate. With our system, companies can innovate without expanding their teams. Technology becomes a strategy for growth, allowing even smaller companies to develop new brands and concepts.

 

What was the original motivation behind your investment in digital and AI technology?

The motivation was fear. Five or six years ago, our ODM business was performing extremely well. Even so, I felt that continuing the same way would eventually lead to decline. Japan’s population is shrinking. Overseas production costs continue rising. Profit margins would inevitably be squeezed. We needed to take a bold step forward. Digital transformation was necessary for survival. In the beginning, it was difficult. But we were extremely fortunate that the rapid evolution of AI over the past two years aligned perfectly with the digital foundations we had already established. Together, these elements created technologies that directly address the pain points of apparel companies.


Leon: The new Tokyo Standard


How do you develop your AI capabilities internally?

We continuously acquire new software and test a wide range of tools. We invest in engineers who understand both apparel and digital technology. We actively seek young talent who love fashion and also love AI and digital tools. Traditional apparel companies rarely hire such individuals because they do not appear to be immediate contributors. We take the opposite approach. We invest in their potential and help them grow. Several years ago, when virtual spaces and NFTs began to rise, we foresaw that ecommerce would eventually shift toward metaverse based commerce. Because we had already developed three dimensional pattern data, we recognized immediately that our data would be extremely valuable in these environments. We increased our investment and continued building our capabilities.

Although the metaverse trend temporarily slowed, global companies are preparing to release new platforms with much smoother motion and far superior user experience. When people feel comfortable staying inside these spaces, economic ecosystems will form. Clothing will be tried on freely. Stores will be created easily. Commission rates will fall dramatically. For example, a major online marketplace currently charges around thirty five percent. Our goal is to reduce that to less than half. This allows anyone to participate without financial risk. Traditional virtual environments required significant investments. For example, creating a single virtual outfit for a major brand event could cost hundreds of thousands of yen. We eliminate that entirely. Because our digital data is ready before the real garments exist, the same items can be displayed in both the physical and digital stores at the same time. Customers can purchase the digital version, the physical version or both.

 

You have also conducted real world pop up events using intellectual property. How does this connect to your digital strategy?

We place strong emphasis on intellectual property because it has tremendous potential with consumers. As climate change makes certain seasonal items like coats harder to sell, character based IP products maintain strong demand. They also integrate naturally into metaverse environments. The combination of fashion, IP and digital worlds creates an engaging entertainment experience. Through such projects, we aim to build environments where consumers can enjoy both entertainment and fashion seamlessly across physical and digital worlds.

 

How do you see Leon’s role in the future of global digital apparel?

Our technology places us at the center of the emerging digital apparel ecosystem. No other company possesses both the real pattern making expertise and the large scale three dimensional data necessary to create accurate apparel for virtual platforms. This knowledge takes more than a decade to develop. It cannot be replicated quickly by game companies or AI startups.

In the future, language barriers in commerce will disappear entirely. AI will automatically translate everything. Virtual sales staff will exist as digital avatars. Customers from every country will access brands effortlessly. Our digital materials are optimized for platforms like TikTok and other social media channels, making global communication seamless. We intend to be at the forefront of the new digital marketplace that will eventually replace traditional ecommerce. We aim to be the first company to build this new platform.

 

For our global readers, could you summarize your company in one minute? How would you describe Leon to someone who is hearing about your company for the first time?

If I were to describe Leon in one minute, I would say that our philosophy is to embrace change with enthusiasm and continue evolving without fear. The world is transforming rapidly. Resisting change only leads to stagnation. We welcome innovation, we adapt to new eras and we move forward boldly. Traditional definitions of what an apparel company should be are no longer relevant. Many Japanese companies remain tied to old expectations, but we do not. We actively pursue what the next era requires. Our belief is simple: enjoy change, evolve constantly and continue moving toward the future.

 


For more information, please visit their website at: https://leon-intnl.co.jp/





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