Milan Fashion Week revealed a Fall/Winter 2026-2027 season of denim led by unique washes, a variety of fits and bold coatings.
Nostalgia showed up at Diesel’s presentation, where models walked down a runway surrounded by 50,000 pieces of archival Diesel memorabilia. Felted tailoring made from production scraps and industrial leftovers, resin-treated jeans and flocked denim were among the highlights. Jeans with extra-long inseams featured hidden vertical slits near the ankle for slipping through a stiletto heel.
GCDS revisited best-selling styles from the past decade including long denim shorts, ruffle-trimmed short-shorts and a jean/pantie hybrid. Philipp Plein played with crocodile prints, monogram logos and crystals across the men’s denim range. Des Phemmes stacked waistbands and belts on bottoms and Blumarine added an overlay of chain jewelry to its low-rise jeans.
Pierre Louis Mascia chose a more subtle approach to statement pieces with tonal patchwork denim chore jackets. Moschino presented pleated jeans with carrot-shape legs and jeans outlined with frays.
Act No. 21, Fendi, Peserico and Marques’ Almeida were among the brands that seemingly spent time in the laundry. The brands experimented with high-low contrast, overdyes and tinted fades. Dirty tints even infiltrated Emporio Armani’s range of pleated denim trousers and button-down shirts. Textured denim, jeans with subtle embellishments and worn-in bomber jackets were part of the youthful collection as well.
There were signs of slimmer leg shapes on the horizon. MM6 Maison Margiela tucked straight-leg jeans into tall boots. Other styles ended neatly at the ankle. Gucci also kept jeans tame except for one jean with a wet-effect coating.