Fashion weeks have suffered from remarkably poor timing in recent years. From news of the coronavirus pandemic in 2020 to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine two years later, the latest edition of the womenswear fashion month, which concluded in Paris yesterday, was overshadowed by reports of the US-Israel war on Iran, ships being sunk off the coast of Sri Lanka and the price of oil skyrocketing as a result. To shift from these headlines to the latest collections being unveiled on the runway requires acknowledging that the fashion industry represents the livelihood of millions of people worldwide – from garment workers and publicists clutching iPads outside of shows to casting agents, caterers, choreographers, set designers and more. While the spectacle of a fashion week feels frivolous at times, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode estimates that Paris Fashion Week generates about €1.2bn in economic revenue for the host city.
Fashion, when executed to the levels seen in recent weeks, holds up a mirror to the times we live in or, at the very least, provides some needed escapism. In Paris, luxury houses continued to raise the bar following a year of creative-director switch-ups and executive reshuffles. As the dust settles, we can now gauge which pairing of designer and maison is emerging as the winning formula. Take, for example, Dior (pictured, above). The label’s Northern Irish creative director, Jonathan Anderson, honed in on the elements of the house codes that resonate with his own sensibility, most notably a love for botany and playing with complex silhouettes. A closer look reveals the perfectly executed details – from buttons running down the seams of trousers to silvery tulle peeping out of a Bar jacket.
Dior isn’t the only label in the LVMH stable to come careening out the gates this season. The French luxury conglomerate is sustaining momentum across the board with a portfolio of brands that are carving out different niches. Celine, Givenchy and Loewe all presented womenswear collections, each with distinct feels. From neoprene scuba-diving-derived shoes at Loewe by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez to Sarah Burton’s sharp suiting and flattering eveningwear at Givenchy, the luxury-goods group is casting a wide net, offering something for everyone.
But is Chanel’s Matthieu Blazy the ultimate winner? The debut collection by the Franco-Belgian creative director hit the racks of the French house’s boutiques over the weekend and reports of a shopping frenzy on Rue Cambon quickly became the talk of the town. On Monday evening, showgoers paraded into the Grand Palais sporting the latest square-toe pumps and iterations of Chanel flap bags (pictured, above). On the runway, models came out in iridescent tweed sets, belted drop-waist skirts and monochromatic coats. As Blazy took his bow, the room erupted into applause. And as excitement for Chanel’s new era translates into real in-shop sales, it offers wider hope for the industry at large, even in the most uncertain of times.
Grace Charlton is Monocle’s associate editor for design and fashion. For more opinion, analysis and insight, subscribe to Monocle today.
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