Jewelry Highlights from Paris Fashion Week’s Fall 2026 Collections

PARIS — Forget clutching your pearls.

As the fall 2026 shows were underway in the City of Light, there was so much more up for grabs as jewelry brands went bold in their designs, unapologetic on their colors and playful in their approach.

Everywhere, gems the size of hard candy were on display and despite sky-high gold prices, there was no shortage of glittering metal visible in showrooms across the city.

Nature reigned supreme, with a smorgasbord of ideas ranging from the blues of Copenhagen seas to the lush greens of France’s volcanic Auvergne region, to the full extent of the animal kingdom. Who knew they’d want to add a trout to their jewelry box by the end of Paris Fashion Week?

Here, WWD amasses a dragon hoard’s worth of glittering new launches:

Fred

This year marks 60 years since Fred Samuel introduced the Force 10 steel cable and gold clasp design in his jewelry brand’s vocabulary, based on an idea by house scion Henri Samuel. For the occasion, the house that bears his name is releasing a clutch of new designs that expand on the now double-loop shape.

Giving the interchangeable bracelet idea an XL, not to mention diamond-studded, update is the Force 10 XL necklace, which comes with three different cables — a tennis necklace, a full gold and steel — for maximum play.

A surprising departure is the Pompon variation, which nods to the 1920s and the founder’s arrival in Paris. Hanging from the signature buckle are braided chains that turn the necklace into a feminine, fluid design.

Also on display at the presentation were the upcoming Roland-Garros pieces, part of its ongoing collaboration with the French Tennis Open, as well as designs playing on the kite-shaped Hero cut diamond.

Chaumet

Chaumet‘s Bee is expanding her hive with a clutch of new designs featuring the graphic hexagonal motif. One multifinger ring even spreads them over the top of the whole hand with diamonds of varying sizes scattered across the play of gold surfaces and skin. The effect is just as striking on an ear cuff with a detachable earring, which can be worn stud-style.

Equally charming is the figurative bee, which comes this time in white gold with blue sapphire accents that recreate the graphic contrasting striping of the insect. It comes as studs, an open ring or a pendant necklace, with hives scattered along the chain.

Another new direction is a wide ring that draws from the tessellation of repeating cells seen in honeycombs. A gently curved surface turns the repeating motif carved in polished gold — semi-pavé or not — playful and light catching.

Boucheron

Boucheron’s latest Quatre designs are fine — slimline even. With the “XS” expansion, the four-layer design — godroon bands, Clou de Paris squares, pavé diamond and ribbed grosgrain — takes on mini proportions that make it ideal for stacking.   

House ambassadors Daisy Edgar-Jones and Han So-hee, alongside actress Dilan Çiçek Deniz, showed off the playful combinations that be created with classic ring combination of yellow, diamond-pavé white and rose golds plus chocolate PVD, and the Black Edition in white gold and black PVD, available as a ring and bangle bracelet.

Also new this spring is the bisected designs on rings, featuring a half inspired by the repeating ribs of silken ribbon and another pairing two godroons.

Aurélie Bidermann

The exotic patterns seen on the runways infiltrated Aurélie Bidermann’s latest creations, developed under an overarching safari theme that intended to pay tribute to the untamed beauty of southern Africa. Handcrafted from materials spanning from polished wood to delicately chiseled metals, key pieces channeled the fierce energy of the creatures of the savanna. A lion face featured on a chunky cuff in wood, as well as a striking pendant on a subtly hammered chain, or as a ring and earrings, in designs that were part of the Saby line. Leopard spots inspired rings in the Imbali family, while the Thanda range stood out with sculptural designs nodding to zebras via black stripes amplifying the curved silhouettes of 18-karat gold-plated pendants set on a tone-on-tone cord, cuffs, slim bracelets and hoop earrings.

Kinraden

For Danes and frequent visitors of Copenhagen, the brick patterns imagined by architect Kay Fisker, a leader of the Danish Functionalism movement, are more than just a feature. “We call it the blueprint of Copenhagen,” said Kinraden’s founder Sarah Müllerz, a trained architect herself.

“And in the morning in Copenhagen, you see all these range of colors when the sun rises and hits the sea,” she continued. “So you have the all the things from yellow, green, blue all the way to dark blue.”

Kinraden’s new “Bricks” collection pays homage to this colorscape and is built around ethically sourced Queensland sapphires. In this endeavor, she found a partner in Gavin Linsell, Australian gem expert and writer, whose “mine-to-market” strategy is a fit for Kinraden’s overall approach that includes recycled precious metals.

The result is a ring, necklaces and earrings where the painstaking gradients come alive like miniature stained glass subjects when the light hits.

Bea Bongiasca

Make it 5 o’clock anywhere with Bea Bongiasca’s Mocktail line, which she presented at the Nouvelle Box showroom during Paris Fashion Week. Why mocktails? Because these cocktail-inspired rings, with designs under the influence of signature mixed drinks, feature lab-grown white diamonds on 9-karat gold settings.

On the menu were Lemon Twist, which features a 3-carat pear-shaped stone with a lime-green enameled swirl on the side; Maraschino Cherry, where the marquise-cut diamond carries a juicy red dot, and Martini, with its 2.4-carat heart-shaped sparkler, which has the olive shot through it like an arrow.

These come priced between 2,800 and 3,670 euros, so chances of a hangover are low.

Sarah Madeleine Bru

After going below the waves with pearls, Sarah Madeleine Bru has her feet firmly on land for the latest jewels she unveiled in her Paris showroom, which opened last year. The windswept coasts of Brittany inspired  “L’Allusion aux Vagues,” (or “an evocation of waves,” in English), a ring sweeping around a 1.7-carat diamond and a scattering of smaller stones.

French sapphires are growing into a signature for the jeweler, who started introducing them in her bespoke line last year. “In my constant search for a precise understanding of how and where things are made, I could not have found a source more transparent, or closer to Paris where the piece was handcrafted,” said Bru. “The stones are cut only a short distance from where they are found, shaped by the lapidary in her own lapidary workshop.”

One striking example is La Selva, whose layered greens — all sapphires hunted in the rivers of France’s Auvergne region and cut locally — are inspired by the volcanic landscape and flowing meanderings of water that saw these gems form in eons past.

Riefe

Rie Harui, the Japanese jeweler behind the Yohji Yamamoto by Riefe line and the striking headpieces seen on the designer’s fall runway, is opening a new chapter for her own Riefe label with Embrace.

For the first time, she is adding pearls to her palette of gemstones, describing the lustrous orbs as “a material born not from perfection, but from transformation,” she told WWD. “The beauty found in a pearl’s creation mirrors our own capacity for growth — through change, through acceptance — as if it were quietly reflecting our inner journey.”

Hexagonal patterns inspired by those found in crystal structures, honeycombs and snowflakes form the basis for her designs, while Akoya pearls seem to bubble up between them. The result was elegant and striking, well served by Harui’s architectural touch.

Boochier

Bloom where you are planted. For Hong Kong-based Melinda Zeman, her “Flower Puff” collection is all about that growing, glowing energy that powers us through tough times.

Whimsy is at the heart of her work from the get-go and continued here with these voluminous shapes that nod to the doodles we all added to our school notes.

Yellow and white gold petals serve as the backdrop for a rainbow of sapphires but also for Asscher-cut white diamonds on bracelets, while earrings play on mini stud blooms or dangling versions. Also eye catching is the two-tone 18-karat gold bracelet.

Shihara

There is a subtlety in the all-gold designs of Shihara that invites one to look closely at each piece. And with the number of ideas that seem straight out of an engineer’s playbook that Tokyo-based designer Yuta Ishihara comes up with, that can take a while.

Time well spent includes checking out the new 18-karat gold versions of the Node series, which looks like a precious ball chain, and playing with rings bisected at 45, 90 or 180 degree angles, creating a matching set that slot together perfectly.

A design worth (re)discovering is the Link series, particularly the graduating chain, with a handful of links set with a tiny dot-sized diamond for extra sparkle. Good luck finding the clasp, as hiding them away is a signature of Ishihara’s work.

The Japanese jewelry brand also took part in Matter & Shape, unveiling a range of modular furniture.

Yutai

In sister brand Yutai, Ishihara continued to forge ahead with the Fused Gems series, this time putting his bi- and sometimes now tricolor combinations on rings. Thanks to angled cuts, the latest iterations ressemble hazy landscapes that feel like an invitation to dream.

But one would be remiss not to mention Slide, which plays on sliced pearls mounted on polished gold plates and paired slightly off center. Designs become reversible, with the lustrous domes sitting above or below the smooth metal crescent. And of course, clasps and earring backs are integrated, as is the designer’s wont.

D’heygere

There’s no one who reads the room better than Stéphanie D’heygere — and adds plenty of wittiness and humor to it. For fall 2026, she tapped into the performative reading trend that surged online as of recently and offered her own take via creations developed under “The Babe Collection.”

“She’s a babe: sexy, sassy, smart and likes to read,” she said. Cue the page holder silver ring enabling her muse to carry on her favorite activity with one hand, and engraved with the message “Do Not Disturb” in case someone bothers her in the process. Yet for those fantasizing about having a literary exchange with a stranger, the designer also conceived a functional leather and metal accessory to give fate a little push: a book holder necklace, turning one’s favorite read into an oversized pendant. Her own reading choice to flaunt and bet on as a conversation starter? “Bonjour Tristesse” by Françoise Sagan.

Avgvst

“Jewelry is like a tattoo, something you make when you make a promise for yourself,” Avgvst founder Natalia Bryantseva told WWD. The Berlin-based jewelry label, which works with sterling silver and 14-karat gold, only develops one theme a year. “There’s something quite therapeutic in finding jewelry that fits the moment.”

With “Asteroid Garden,” it’s the idea that “we are at once the garden and gardener of ourselves” and that nothing blooms without hard work and a fair amount of digging.

Garden hoses are repurposed into abstract loops, plants leave their enameled imprints on classic two-sided heart rings while seeds and a fun trowel turn into earrings in this poetic range meant to evoke growth.

It comes hot on the heels of a collaboration with J.Kim, the brand of Korean-Uzbek designer Jenia Kim, playing on antique Uzbek bracelets, baking cups and traditional tumar amulets.

Colette Jewelry

“Anis is not a collection like the others. It’s probably the most personal one I have ever created. Its name comes from my mother’s favorite candy,” said Colette Steckel, who founded the Colette Jewelry brand back in 1995. For more than 30 years she’s been collecting stones, which she brought to life in her latest, joyful creations spotlighting her penchant for bold colors. Emeralds, sapphires, peridots, topazes, amethysts, tourmalines and quartz in different sizes and cuts collided in the rings, heart-shaped earrings and standout necklaces crafted in 18-karat gold. It was deliberately given a subtly darker patina to allow the gems’ vibrant hues to shine even more vividly.

House Janolo

Since a leopard doesn’t change its spots, you’ll just have to collect multiple jewels from House Janolo, the fine jewelry label founded by sisters Dujahah and Oloof Jarrar. Working with 18-karat gold and gemstones in juicy hues, their work is all about having a pop of boldness every day.

With Wild Beginnings, their first collection, the duo mixed and matched striking patterns found in nature executed in enamel with stones the size of boiled sweets.

The result is a maximalist’s dream zoo, with a trout lending its spots to a pendant with a 45-carat amethyst, a zebra turning into a lozenge-shaped ring with stripes leading to an apatite, an orchid becoming a hexagonal pendant with a kunzite heart and a striking circular lattice pattern that echoes the enameled dots on its front or a coral reef interpreted as a flexible necklace with a central 14.6-carat aquamarine and over 8 carats’ worth of rubies.

Bibi van der Velden

As a child growing up in England, frogs were a familiar sight to the young Bibi van der Velden, as they were the denizens populating the “slightly dark, wet but magical” forests and fields, a world that felt alive with possibilities and mysteries to uncover.

Now grown up and a jeweler based in Amsterdam, she turned these amphibians — who are also considered harbingers of love — plus a handful of charming snails into the stars of the Enchanted Forest collection.

Fascinated by frogs’ transformation and a lifecycle that starts in water only to end on land, she worked them as portable sculptures with carved rock crystal backs through which entire miniature universes can be glimpsed.

On the Terrarium bangle, there’s even mushrooms in gold, while the Tree of Life unfurls its glittering branches inside the transparent dome of a pair of earrings. On another bracelet, it’s the entire lifecycle that’s depicted, from the recognizable clutches of dotted eggs that float to a spawn growing into a fully mature adult turned iridescent by the mother-of-pearl inlay under its rock crystal skin.

“We need magic more than ever,” van der Velden mused at her Paris presentation. Hear, hear.

– with contributions from Sandra Salibian.