In a world consumed by ’90s-era Carolyn Bessette Kennedy style and the casual cool of an effortless aura, denim has become king. How you shop and style your denim can be a broader signal of your overall aesthetic, lifestyle, and even tax bracket. Lucky for ELLE readers, we’ve consulted the expert and “denim whisperer,” Benjamin Talley Smith, to share what to look for when it comes to buying the perfect pair of jeans.
“The best jeans feel like they’ve already had a life before you even start wearing them,” says Talley Smith, whose atelier, Talley Creative, dropped a limited-edition collaboration with Madewell earlier this year and has also designed collections for Khaite, Re/Done, Helmut Lang, and Reformation. “Fit, fabric, and wash—that’s always the starting point. But beyond that, great jeans have authenticity.”
For most of us, denim is an everyday necessity, a staple rather than an optional piece—and for something that you put on your body every day, you’re going to want to be intentional about it. For Talley Smith, there are a few non-negotiables when it comes to denim:
- What to look for: “Fabric weight and fabric character. For me, denim really needs to be at least 13 ounces. That weight gives the jeans structure and allows them to break in properly over time. Equally important is the fabric’s character and how it fades, softens, and evolves with wear. That’s what makes a pair of jeans feel real.”
- What to avoid: “Over-processed denim. If the wash looks too ‘hot’ on the thighs or there’s too much artificial distressing or tacking, it usually ends up looking fake and cheap. The best jeans are actually pretty simple. Stick with classic silhouettes and subtle wash techniques because they age much better.”
- What never goes out of style: “The timeless straight leg. Whether you’re talking about a vintage [Levi’s] 501 or something more modern like Khaite’s Danielle, the straight leg always works. It elongates the leg and feels balanced on the body. Denim trends swing back and forth—from skinny to wide—but the straight leg sits right in the middle. It’s the one silhouette that always comes back. Find the version that works for you and stick with it.”
Now that you’re equipped with knowledge from the expert himself, it’s time to shop. There are dozens, if not hundreds, of denim brands out there, but we’ve chosen our favorites that are always a sure bet on style and value.
Madewell
Madewell is an easy staple brand for denim, with its accessibly-priced and effortlessly wearable options (plus, we love a wide assortment of brick-and-mortar locations). And with elevated collaborations like that of Talley-Smith’s, its offerings continue to expand for customers after high quality with great lasting value.
Sizes: 23-28W (Standard, Petite, Tall, Plus)
Price: $$
Levi’s
You can’t talk denim if you’re not mentioning Levi’s, and there’s a reason it’s been a go-to for generations: the timeless fit (case in point: the Carolyn Bessette Kennedy-approved style our senior fashion commerce editor, Dale Arden Chong, is obsessed with). “Vintage Levi’s, always,” says Talley-Smith. “It’s still the most important denim brand in the world. I’m constantly hunting for great vintage pairs at flea markets and vintage shops—jeans someone has already lived in. That history is what makes them special.”
Sizes: 23-34
Price: $
Agolde
If the denim world had an It brand, it’d be Agolde. A tried-and-true go-to for stylish women for years, Agolde is one of those brands that is no doubt a classic but is no stranger to an unexpected silhouette or a surprise detail. To wear a pair of Agolde denim is to love them, and real fans will know that there are some details you only notice when you wear them over and over again.
Sizes: 23-34
Price: $$
Rùadh
Launched in 2024 by former Calvin Klein global denim director Jac Cameron, Rùadh is a brand for the ultra-chic. Thick, high-quality material meets crisp, streamlined silhouettes to create an effortlessly sleek image for any given wearer. A bonus? The brand is B-Corp certified, meaning it is committed to sustainable, intentional production.
“While the releases tend to be produced in smaller runs, Rùadh still manages to offer a great variety of cuts and colors. A personal favorite of mine is the Agnes—it’s such a timeless fit and can easily be a closet staple.” —Carson Stannard, fashion editor
Sizes: 23-34
Price: $$$$
Frame
Another favorite of the style set, Frame denim just makes a good pair of jeans, plain and simple. Amelia Gray’s favorite styles consistently sell out upon their drop, but the brand’s evergreen styles are a perfect fit for those looking for flattering cuts and no-nonsense style.
Sizes: 23-34
Price: $$$
Still Here
A favorite among celebrities like Zoë Kravitz and Jennifer Lawrence, Still Here is actually relatively new. The brand was founded in 2018 by husband-and-wife duo Sonia and Maurice Mosseri with a strong presence from the jump, especially in downtown New York. Still Here plays with silhouette and color (the brand signature is a color-blocked stripe down the back of the leg), while still maintaining ease of wear and a flattering fit.
Sizes: 22-32
Price: $$$
7 For All Mankind
7 For All Mankind made a major early-2010s-era comeback this season with its runway show during New York Fashion Week, serving Serena Van der Woodsen party girl realness. With its spring campaign also featuring Chloë Sevigny, the message is clear: the cool girl is back, and she’s wearing 7 For All Mankind.
Sizes: 23-34
Price: $$
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