Johanna Ortiz presented her collection Alma in Madrid, but the location was more than just a backdrop. The Colombian designer stayed true to her tropical roots, but paid subtle tribute to Spain. “As a child, I was fascinated by trajes de luces. It’s not about bullfighting, but about the theatricality of the moment. I didn’t want to do anything literal, but rather include small nods: reinterpreting that kind of embroidery, emphasizing the shoulders, exploring ruffles—which feel very much ours—while adapting them to that imagery,” she explained.
On the runway, these references translated into gaucho-style trousers linked to the equestrian world, bolero jackets, and pom-pom belts that adorned dresses, skirts, and coats alike. Materials such as leather, velvet, and shearling helped bring her sense of relaxed luxury into a more wintry realm. “I come from a country where seasons don’t really exist. We have mild temperatures and rain all year round, but the seasons don’t truly change. That’s why I like mixing heavier pieces with others that can be worn year-round.”
Far from the saturated tones that usually define her designs, the hues here were toned down to create more elevated, evening-ready looks. “We see our client as a global woman, and in cities like Paris or New York, colors tend to be quite restrained during winter. So we tried to work those tropical references into the textures rather than the color palette,” Ortiz explained.
Craftsmanship—always central to the brand’s spirit—was the focus of a collaboration with jeweler Omar Hurtado who created pre-Colombian-inspired pieces well suited to the brand’s eclectic identity. Meanwhile, the label Moi & Sass was responsible for the handcrafted leather bags. “For us, it’s very important to carefully choose who we collaborate with, but also to give visibility to these crafts and this kind of expertise,” Ortiz said. With a packed venue, that’s exactly what she accomplished.