Sometimes, watching a runway show feels like falling in love. A fast, obsessive love – one that makes you want the clothes all over your body. One that demands every detail; like shaking hands with the creative director is not close enough. You want to dive inside their brain and shout until it echoes, “Where did this come from? Tell me everything.”
It has been a while since that affection took root as deeply, or as beautifully for me, as it did amidst the Oude Waag Fall/Winter 2026 collection.
For his Shanghai Fashion Week showcase, designer Ming Peng translated the internal weight of loss into a collection titled “Radical Tenderness.”
The presentation began with a haunting, low melody that set the stage for a palette defined by earthy, maternal browns. Arising from the smoke looming on the floor, fang-like spikes were recontextualized as soft, swaying fringes crafted from eco-suede. Finding softness in sharp structure would be a theme that continued throughout the collection which echos Peng’s explanation of the concept backstage: “Radical tenderness means that tenderness can be a strength,” he shares. “It can be an acceptance of failure.”
Meanwhile, chunky knits featured intentional ruptures and hanging threads, nodding to the beauty found in scars and the safety of a warm layer. A shift into verdant green marks a transition toward renewal. Stretch velvet is sculpted into shifting silhouettes that alternate between tight compression and loose drapes, catching the light in rhythmic patterns.
The collection also borrows from traditional menswear, reimagining classic tailoring through corduroy and sharp, layered lapels. Fine striped wool is utilized for draped, cape-style bustiers paired with straight skirts, defining a modern, powerful femininity. Deep burgundy and plum, two standout colors from the FW26 season at large, closed the collection. Ultimately, the showcase paid homage to the intensity of self-acceptance and the ability to flow through life with the inevitability of change.
For more SHFW news, read up on Feng Chen Wang’s FW26 showcase.