“For me, dress designing is not a profession but an art.” – Elsa Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art, at the V&A museum London, is the first UK exhibition dedicated to Maison Schiaparelli, and it is a thrilling display of fashion and art. Spanning the 1920s to today, it explores the history and influence of one of the 20th century’s most innovative designers, Elsa Schiaparelli (1890–1973). The show traces the House’s evolution—from its early, groundbreaking creations between the two world wars to its contemporary revival under creative director Daniel Roseberry.
Fashion is Art
Schiaparelli Exhibition at the V & A, London
Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Elsa Schiaparelli’s couture house was defined by its boldness. Her influence extended far beyond fashion. Her granddaughter, the American actor Marisa Berenson says “she was not merely a designer – she was an artist. Fashion was her medium but her soul spoke the language of Surrealism.” She worked at the heart of Europe’s creative avant-garde where she often collaborated with artists, photographers and actors including some of the most visionary figures of her time like Dalí, Cocteau, Giacometti, Man Ray and Picasso.
Salvador Dalí Lobster Telephone 1938 on show at the Schiaparelli exhibition, V&A
Tate / Tate Images
The exhibition features over 400 objects, including 100 ensembles and 50 artworks, alongside accessories, jewellery, paintings, photographs, furniture, perfumes, and archival materials. Highlights include the 1938 Skeleton dress—the only known surviving example from the V&A’s permanent collection—the 1938 Tears dress, and a surreal hat shaped like an upside-down shoe, all created in collaboration with Salvador Dalí. Works by Pablo Picasso, Jean Cocteau, Man Ray, and Eileen Agar are also on display, along with Schiaparelli’s designs for film and theatre. The show concludes with Daniel Roseberry’s striking contemporary creations, including pieces worn by Ariana Grande and Dua Lipa.
The exhibition in four chapters
The famous jackets, Schiaparelli Exhibition
Victoria and Albert Museum, London
“Designing the Modern Wardrobe” introduces Elsa Schiaparelli’s career, from opening her first Paris premises in 1927 under the sign “Schiaparelli. Pour Le Sport” to becoming, by 1934, a leading couturier for the modern urban woman. One of the earliest Schiaparelli garments – a trompe l’oeil bow-knot sweater from 1927, given to the V&A by the designer, is on show in this section. Also here are examples of her practical daywear, “Pour la Ville,” including trouser suits (unusual for women at the time) along with sharply tailored skirt suits. Highlights of her bold evening wear designs, “Pour le Soir,” include a shimmering gold lamé gown and a dinner suit with appliquéd circus horses. Her accessories were equally imaginative, whether hats shaped as plaited hair or shoes featuring stripes or leopard fur.
THe Dali Lobster dress at Schiaparelli Exhibition
Victoria and Albert Museum, London
The exhibition’s second section, “Creative Constellations” highlights Schiaparelli’s close ties with the art world. In Paris, she collaborated with surrealists and avant-garde creatives, blending fashion with painting, sculpture and literature. Key works on show include the 1937 Lobster dress displayed alongside Salvador Dalí’s Lobster Telephone (1938), and an evening coat by Schiaparelli and Jean Cocteau embroidered with mirrored faces and pink silk roses, accompanied by Cocteau’s drawings. Schiaparelli also commissioned artists for advertisements and boutique designs and inspired portraits by Man Ray and Cecil Beaton.
Schiaparelli Exhibition
Victoria and Albert Museum, London
“Beyond Paris” covers the 1933 opening of her London salon in Mayfair from 1933 to 1939 and showcases rare Schiaparelli London pieces, including a burgundy velvet suit with gold embroidery, a dress and coat worn to King George VI’s 1937 coronation. She referred to this period as “the happiest years in [her] life.” Also featured is the only surviving Schiaparelli wedding dress, worn by Rosalinde Gilbert in London. Her international reputation was further extended through the 1930s to 1950s, when she designed costumes for British, French and American stage and film productions. Mae West’s outfit in Every Day’s a Holiday (1937) is here as well as pieces worn by Marlene Dietrich, who famously favored her sharply tailored trouser suits.
The House of Schiaparelli Today
Victoria and Albert Museum Schiaparelli Exhibition.
David Parry/PA Media Assignments
The final section of the exhibition “A Golden Thread” highlights Elsa Schiaparelli’s lasting influence, carried forward by creative director Daniel Roseberry. Since 2019, he has reinvented the House with sculptural, couture-driven designs. Recent highlights for the brand were the sparkling gown Ariana Grande wore for her 2025 Oscar’s performance, alongside Dua Lipa’s modern black-and-gold take on the Skeleton dress for the 2024 Golden Globes. The section shows how past and present merge, keeping Schiaparelli’s visionary spirit alive today.
Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art, Cromwell Road, London SW7 2RL until 8 November 2026. Admission: Weekday £28.00 / Weekend £30.00
