“Public intervention is necessary to promote more sustainable fashion,” says Gilles Lipovetsky

“Today, no structure of consumer capitalism escapes the logic of fashion. Fashion is everywhere; not in oil or in the data sector, obviously, but in everything to do with how individuals seek approval.” With this reflection, the renowned philosopher and sociologist Gilles Lipovetsky, author of works such as ‘The Empire of the Ephemeral: Fashion and Its Destiny in Modern Societies,’ opened his talk at the International European Designer Fashion Days, held in Barcelona on Monday and Tuesday. In a conversation open to the audience, the thinker addressed key issues shaping the present and future of the industry, weaving in the reflections and historical context so characteristic of his discourse.

“For a long time, fashion wasn’t about brands; it was about garments. Brands did not exist as they do today. It is now impossible to talk about fashion without talking about brands. And the challenge is building that image, because it is the brand that sells. It is the brand that shapes the consumer’s mind and taste,” he said.

“In the past, the essence lay in the garment, the cut. I don’t think that’s possible any longer. Today, major brands combine communication, shops, press, foundations… In other words, we have moved from garment-centric fashion to polycentric fashion. Creating an identity is no longer just about making a beautiful garment; it is about building an ecosystem that involves artists, music, imagery… The garment is now an element within a complex and multidimensional galaxy. And that’s why today we talk about a creative director: someone who not only designs clothes, but also shoes, perfumes, brand image… The fashion house becomes an artistic house, the shops themselves become theatres and the audience, smartphones in hand, photographing everything, become ambassadors,” reflected Lipovetsky.

The thinker also delved into a key issue for the sector in recent years, namely sustainability: “It has become a central issue: the textile industry is a driver of planetary devastation, of the destruction of biodiversity, and it directly threatens future generations. There is something absolutely new here. In 1950, no one would have imagined that this issue could permeate a designer’s work. Today it is impossible to ignore this dimension.”

And he posed the big question: is fashion compatible with sustainability? “Not necessarily. Because fashion’s logic is change for change’s sake. There is no real need to be constantly changing clothes. And there is a contradiction there: that permanent change clashes with the planet’s limits. There may be an incompatibility, but it can be reduced. And that’s where brands’ responsibility comes in: to use biodegradable materials, recycle, etc. It is a huge challenge.”

Before a packed auditorium at the Tinglados venue in the Catalan capital, by the port, Lipovetsky also called on public bodies: “The European Union has an important role to play. We cannot leave everything to the market. Public intervention is also needed to foster more sustainable fashion. Moreover, consumers are spending less and less on clothing. In Spain, for example, only 3% of household spending goes on clothing; in the 1950s it was 20%. If desire is not created by other means, cheap products will dominate. Many young people are not looking for originality, but for something they like and that fits them. That’s why it’s not only brands that have to act: public institutions have to act as well.”

Where does this context leave European fashion? The sociologist offers a note of optimism: “Europe is home to the major luxury brands. Groups like LVMH; French, Italian, Swiss brands… Europe has not disappeared in this area. Where it has lost ground is in technology, because it doesn’t have giants like those in the United States. But in fashion, especially in luxury, it is still very strong. Why? Because Europe invented the great modern brands in the 19th century. That history gives it prestige.”