On the Glossy Podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff break down some of the biggest fashion news of the week.
This week, with New York Fashion Week wrapped up, Jill is joined by Silvano Vangi, creative and merchandising director at Printemps New York, to get a buyer’s perspective on this season’s NYFW.
While fashion week has slowly transformed into a consumer-facing PR and marketing moment for brands, forging relationships with retail buyers like Vangi is still an important part of hosting a show. Vangi explained his thoughts on the brands and shows he saw and what’s exciting him about the fashion market right now.
Printemps’ approach to NYFW
Vangi: “The goal of Printemps is to bring French designers and European style to New York. We’re very careful about the American designers because it’s important for us to be integrated in the market. So, for example, we had an incredible event with Sergio Hudson and had the chance to have him in the store presenting these beautiful dresses the day after the show to clients, and you could try them on in the smart mirror in collaboration with Google. So it’s important to represent both emerging and established American designers. It was also really important to see the new version of Proenza Schouler. We are such fans of Rachel [Scott].”
The must-see shows
Vangi: “There’s always a chance to organize a video call with the designers, but it’s super important to see the collection in person — to see the fit, to see on the model, to touch the fabrics. So it’s important for me to be present in the showrooms. That’s a priority. I don’t have the chance to go to every show, but I went to a few. I saw Proenza, I saw Khaite, Public School, Laquan Smith, Campillo.”
Vangi: “I was interested in Campillo. I think [designer Patricio Campillo] has something really interesting to say. I had dinner with him because I wanted to understand more about what he’s doing. When you hear his story, you understand that everything he does comes from his family. He brings a beautiful image to life with a very modern approach.”
The brand-retailer relationship
Vangi: “The brands, when you speak about exclusives, they have to create a product only for you. It means that there is usually a minimum quantity for production. So it’s very different. Usually, when we do exclusive capsule collections, we also create a beautiful event in the store so the customer can meet the designer. And we’re playing more in the haute couture side, so when we opened the [NYC] store, we had an exhibition from Jean-Paul Gaultier, and we worked with Armani Privé. So we do a different range of prices, for sure, with our exclusives.”
Vangi: “Our store is not a department store, it’s a concept store. So we mix the ideas with our designers. I have to spend time with them, understand their process, their vision, their inspiration. In this moment, everything is really fast. So it’s really important to translate their vision into the store. There is tension in the market for sure [over the wholesale model]. The designers are also trying to understand what to do. So it’s a delicate moment.”