Traditional Japanese kimonos, which can last over 100 years, are being transformed into modern clothing and accessories as part of a growing sustainability movement. Entrepreneurs are converting these elaborate silk garments into jackets, dresses, and even decorative dolls to prevent waste. The trend reflects both environmental consciousness and a desire to preserve cultural heritage in new ways.
TOKYO (AP) — Japan’s iconic kimono, the intricate silk garment once worn by geisha and samurai warriors, is experiencing a modern renaissance focused on environmental sustainability.
These authentic silk garments, whose name translates to “worn thing,” can endure for a century or longer. Within Japanese households, they pass from one generation to the next, much like precious family heirlooms, artwork, and war memorabilia.
Their timeless appeal never fades.
The fundamental structure of kimonos and their accompanying “obi” belts has remained unchanged since Japan’s 17th-century Edo era, the same period featured in classic Akira Kurosawa samurai films.
However, contemporary artisans are embracing innovative approaches, transforming traditional kimonos by deconstructing and reconstructing them into modern jackets, contemporary dresses, and stylish trousers.
“I noticed that a lot of beautiful kimono is just sleeping in people’s closets. That’s such a waste,” said Mari Kubo, who heads a kimono-remake business called K’Forward, pronounced “K dash forward.”
Her company represents part of a growing trend in such services, which also convert vintage kimonos into handbags and decorative figurines.
Kubo’s most sought-after items are “tomesode,” formal black kimonos featuring vibrant embroidered designs of flowers, birds, or plant life along the hem.
She specializes in coordinated outfits, which she refers to as “set-ups.” A tomesode becomes a jacket while preserving its characteristic flowing sleeves, with elaborate designs positioned prominently across the back. She then selects a complementary patterned kimono to fashion matching bottoms. Occasionally, obi fabric serves as collar accents for added visual interest.
According to Kubo, her primary customers are younger consumers seeking to appreciate kimono culture without traditional complications.
Redesigned kimonos at K’Forward range up to 160,000 yen ($1,000) for a “furisode,” the vibrant long-sleeved style traditionally worn by unmarried young women, while black tomesode pieces cost approximately 25,000 yen ($160).
Designer Tomoko Ohkata finds the greatest satisfaction in her vintage kimono creations comes from environmental responsibility rather than guilt over waste.
“I feel the answer was right there, being handed down from our ancestors,” she said.
Japanese recycling centers receive thousands of vintage kimonos daily as families discover them stored away by previous generations. Modern Japanese typically reserve kimono wearing for significant events like weddings. Many brides now choose Western white gowns over traditional kimono, though some opt for both styles.
Ohkata’s customers frequently bring family kimonos seeking transformation. They value the garments’ historical significance, she explained.
Her compact Tokyo shop showcases various figurines, including traditional samurai and wife pairs displayed in Japanese homes during the annual Girls’ Day celebration on March 3rd. Her dolls wear meticulously crafted miniature outfits made from repurposed kimono fabric, priced at 245,000 yen ($1,600) per set.
Traditional kimono wearing is also experiencing renewed interest.
“Unlike the dress, you can arrange it,” says Nao Shimizu, who heads a school in Japan’s ancient capital of Kyoto that teaches people how to wear a kimono and how to carry oneself while wearing it.
“In half a year, you can learn how to do it all by yourself,” she said, briskly demonstrating several ways to tie the obi to express different moods, from playful to understated.
Beyond durability, Shimizu emphasizes that this adaptability contributes to kimono sustainability.
Modern Japanese youth adopt more casual approaches, pairing kimonos with boots instead of traditional “zori” sandals, she noted with amusement.
While proper kimono dressing requires technique, instruction is available from teachers like Shimizu, similar to learning musical instruments. Professional assistance can be found at beauty salons, hotels, and specialty retailers.
Though most Japanese wear kimonos only occasionally throughout their lives, the experience remains significant.
Singer Sumie Kaneko, who performs on traditional koto and shamisen instruments, frequently appears in striking dresses created from recycled kimonos. She believes sustainability principles are fundamental to Japanese culture, pointing out that ivory and animal materials for her instruments are increasingly scarce.
She describes this concept as “the recycling of life.”
“The performer breathes new life into them,” says the New York-based Kaneko.
“In the same way, a past moment — and those patterns and colors that were once loved — can come back to life.”