It was back to black for Bach Mai. Sure, the choice of a pared-back palette for fall reflected the state of the world—and the Sisyphean task of being a young, independent label right now—but it was also rooted in a desire to wipe the slate clean.
Like many of New York’s up-and-comers, the 2025 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist is—respectfully—throwing out the industry playbook. “We’ve been trying to figure out our pace and rhythm, and a lot of what we do now is for them,” Mai said pre-show, waving at a room full of his clients (some of whom had flown from Texas to be at his dînatoire-cum-runway reveal on Sunday afternoon.) “So I really wanted to let my customers be my muse this season.”
By showing his wares in predominantly black and a delicious deep burgundy—a first for the print-lover—Mai wanted the audience’s focus to be solely on fit, fabrication, and the fluidity of movement. It’d help with his team of three’s already healthy custom order business, he imagines, as his main focus these days is growing DTC.
Keen to put on a real day out for his aforementioned fan club, the designer—who cut his teeth with John Galliano at Maison Margiela—took over Ayah, a new-ish upscale Moroccan restaurant in SoHo that made for a fittingly photogenic backdrop. As models gracefully floated past, with silk trains cascading behind them, attendees nibbled on briouats and chhiwat while they placed imaginary pre-orders in their heads. Very much playing into the vibe, a model even grabbed a glass of Champagne from the bar mid-walk.
This was ‘Mai-nimalism,’ if you will. The designer honed in on staple pieces, like wide-leg palazzo pants and sleek dresses in woven fringe and velvet. Even in black, it was clear that a high-neck and backless bias cut silk gown with a slim transparent panel sliced around the thigh would make for a really regal bridal look. “I’ve felt like there’s a stigma around eveningwear in the industry, but the mentors in the Fashion Fund really helped me to remember that it’s what I’m good at and reminded me I should embrace it, not fight it,” Mai said.
Now confident in his signature satin bomber jacket silhouette, this season it came rendered in a glossy fur, Aran-style handknit cashmere, and a technical nylon. “I wanted to propose other ways that we can do eveningwear for customers, whether that’s a sweater with a silk skirt or a jacket and pants,” he said. “It’s a very ‘real’ kind of glamour. I call it ‘American glamour.’”
Speaking of doing things his own way, during the show, Mai flitted between the restaurant’s service area, the banquettes to snap selfies with guests, and a few times, even appeared on the makeshift runway beside his models. “That’s definitely a first,” a veteran editor of 20 years whispered while smiling.