Laura and Deanna Fanning found inspiration for the fall collection in an unlikely place: the birdwatchers they used to pass by on their morning commute through North London parks.
“They were watching birds,” said Deanna Fanning. “And we were watching them.” The resulting collection explored the tension between observer and observed, which they translated into utility, movement and pieces of display.
From there, the collection took flight. Rich brocade parkas cut like oversize ponchos enveloped the body, while cocooning jackets with small elasticated openings for the arms wrapped the wearer like protective shells. Knitwear worked with the shape, too; some pieces allowed the arms to slip through subtle slits while a cape-like hood draped over the shoulders that played with form.
“You have ‘peacocking,’ but I feel like that always relates to menswear. So in some ways, these moments of beautiful flow, where you see these drapes moving at the back, that was our way to try out the idea of the bird in the every day,” Laura said. “But through the feminine gaze.”
Still, it’s not a showpiece collection and practicality remained central. Utility trousers and jackets were loaded with pockets — and even had pockets within pockets — fashion versions of the functional cargo gear of amateur ornithologists.
Strong-shouldered coats and slim-legged tailoring grounded the silhouettes, while elasticated waists and sporty cord belts lent the outerwear an outdoorsy edge.
Shiny coated cotton appeared as if wet from the morning mist, while feathery yarns transformed zip-up coats and tracksuits into tactile, fluttering plumage.
Elsewhere, draped dresses in robin’s-egg blue or blossom pink featured gathering at the shoulder or around the hemline, adding softness to an otherwise technical offering.
The sisters are expanding their range, including eyewear, in partnership with Oakley, and made their first foray into accessories through a jewelry collaboration with Thai designer Patcharavipa. On the runway, they showcased guillemot egg-shaped silver pendants and earrings.
They also featured the latest edition of the split-toe Tabi-style sneaker from their ongoing collaboration with Asics.
Off the runway, they are expanding their direct-to-consumer retail strategy, and the brand opened an East London flagship last November. The location has enabled them to observe their little flock of Kiko customers, with outerwear and shoes performing especially well, they added.