Black Fashion Archives offers an in-depth exploration of some of the most influential Black figures in fashion that deserve more praise. Here, we highlight and celebrate their journeys and the legacies that have helped secure their place in the history of fashion.
Edward Buchanan is recognized as the first design director at Bottega Veneta—long before the buzzy runway shows and coveted leather goods that define the brand today. At just 26, Buchanan was among the earliest creatives to shape the house into what we now know it to be. Yet, his contributions were largely written out of the narrative, and only recently has his story begun to resurface following the brand’s full-circle campaign honoring the designer.
Regardless, Buchanan has continued to stay equal-parts busy and inspiring in recent years. He currently runs his own knitwear brand Sansovino 6, is the Fashion Director at Perfect Magazine Milan, and has consulted for brands like Off-White. And when he’s not working with major names, he’s giving back to his community with the organization “We Are Made In Italy,” designed to diversify Italy’s fashion landscape, which he co-founded alongside Haitian-Italian designer Stella Jean.
Now, ESSENCE dives into the archives to trace the creative evolution and lasting impact of Edward Buchanan
From Cleveland To New York
Born in Cleveland, Ohio, to a single mother alongside his two older brothers, Buchanan grew up watching his mother make things happen—no matter the obstacles, she always figured it out. Her resilience paved the way for him to move to New York City and attend Parsons School of Design. While juggling full-time school and work, he also immersed himself in the city’s nightlife, rubbing shoulders with fashion icons like Marc Jacobs, Honey Dijon, and JFK Jr. It was through these connections that he ultimately landed a role at Bottega Veneta, after a chance encounter with Rodney Patterson, the display designer for Bottega Veneta on Madison Avenue.
The Job Of A Lifetime
In 1995, Bottega Veneta was still a relatively young brand compared to the long-established luxury fashion houses—it was approaching its 30th anniversary and had yet to show at Milan Fashion Week. The house was not the global powerhouse we recognize today, and it wasn’t even on Buchanan’s radar. But he understood it was his first real opportunity to break into fashion.
After presenting a creative project to Bottega’s former President and Creative Director Laura Moltedo, Buchanan received life-changing news just three weeks later. At 26, he was on a flight to Vicenza, Italy. With a brief stop in Venice, the young, loc’d designer was detained by immigration officers—an encounter that felt unmistakably racially motivated. In that moment, he was reminded that, despite earning his position, he was still seen as a foreigner—and a Black man. What made the moment even more significant: he was stepping into history as Bottega Veneta’s first Design Director.
The Creative Director Without The Title
After years of intimate presentations, Buchanan staged his first Milan runway show for Spring/Summer 1999 with a tight, deliberate team that included fashion designers like Manuela Morin on shoes, Eduardo Wong Vale on handbags, and Laura Moltedo overseeing development. Early campaigns featured Rachel Roberts, photographed by Peter Lindbergh, followed by Vivien Solari, shot by Steven Klein.
The brand quickly gained cultural momentum—dressing artists like Lauryn Hill, attracting regular visits from John Galliano, and later bringing in Stuart Vevers to design handbags, which helped the brand reach an international stage. Young and unconcerned with industry constraints, the team created with clarity and conviction. By the Fall/Winter 2000 show in New York—soundtracked to Prince—Buchanan sensed his tenure was coming to a close. Though he was effectively acting as creative director at Bottega Veneta, he worked without the formal title, taking his bows and remaining focused on the work before ultimately choosing to pursue independence.
Life After Bottega
After departing Bottega Veneta, Buchanan did not step away from fashion—he expanded his vision. Teaming up with Manuela Morin, he co-founded the label LEFLESH, a collection rooted in sculptural tailoring, sensual structure, and a deep respect for craftsmanship. The brand quickly became known for its unapologetic glamour and technical precision, dressing some of the most iconic women in entertainment. Custom pieces were created for performers such as Cher and Jennifer Lopez, blending stage presence with couture-level construction.
Beyond the atelier, Buchanan’s world moved seamlessly between fashion, music, and cultural powerhouses, including Mick Jagger, Grace Jones, and Kanye West—each moment reinforcing his quiet yet undeniable influence. His reputation for mastery of craft and form extended across generations. He even collaborated with Virgil Abloh and the house Abloh founded, Off-White. Whenever Abloh spoke of Buchanan, it was with a tone of grace and admiration, acknowledging a designer whose technical brilliance and creative integrity left a lasting impression.
“Craft Is Our Language”
In a full-circle moment, Buchanan was featured in Bottega Veneta’s May 2025 campaign celebrating fifty years of its iconic intrecciato leather. The campaign honored the house’s heritage and the artisans, designers, and creative forces who helped define its visual language. For many, this marked the first time his legacy at the brand was publicly acknowledged on such a global scale. In an industry that often compresses its timelines and simplifies its narratives, Buchanan’s presence expanded the story. It reminded audiences that fashion history is layered, collaborative, and frequently built on contributions that go uncredited.
By spotlighting him, Bottega did more than celebrate intrecciato; it broadened the conversation about visibility, authorship, and who is remembered when a brand tells its story. Buchanan’s return to the frame was not just nostalgic—it was necessary.