Fashion has always come with its so-called rules. Your bag should match your shoes. Never mix metals. Stick to one print. Legs or décolletage – never both. Black at a wedding? Unthinkable. And as for pairing black and brown? Absolutely not. Yet, the AW25 runway proved that often committing an alleged fashion faux pas can be decidedly chic.
Miuccia Prada has long defended the ‘good taste of bad taste.’ She’s made a career of transforming what once felt perhaps wrong and awkward into something quietly radical and unmistakably elegant. For AW25, she and Raf Simons once again tinkered with the boundaries between the polished and the undone. Their collection looked at femininity through a dishevelled lens – think structured top-handle purses paired with mussed hair, prim blouses with skirting hanging askew and, notably, the surprising combination of black and brown.
Black wool coats in mannish proportions were softened with faux-fur brown trims. Ladylike black dresses hung loosely around the neck, their hems unevenly hitched up, and were paired with sleek brown accessories. A crumpled, faded-brown leather skirt was styled with a sharp black handbag and pointed heels.
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As expected, the street style set followed suit. Outside the shows, chocolate, mocha and chestnut tones were layered with jet-black leathers and inky wools, proving that this once-taboo mix is now the ultimate marker of knowingly breaking the rules.
Would you dare to disobey? Here are 7 ways to wear black and brown right now.
Like A Lady
Take notes from Mrs P and style your most ladylike black dress with a pair of brown pointed pumps. Layer over a brown skinny belt and gold jewellery to finish off the runway-inspired look.
PRADA Short-sleeve chevron wool dress with belt
Function First
Function meets flair with this bomber jacket and cargo trouser pairing. The key is in coordinating your materials so the look works even if the colours clash. Choose between canvas or Nylon. Style with colourful trainers featuring subtle brown accents for a playful and practical finish.
Anine Bing Leon Shell Bomber Jacket
Acne Studios – Wide-leg Cargo Pants
The Layered Look
Thanks to Miu Miu, layering up camis and tanks became an unexpected trend for SS25 —but the cooler weather makes it even more relevant now. Opt for a black tank top with an off-the-shoulder brown knit to nail the look. The secret is to diversify your necklines and create intentional negative space.
Cos Off-The-Shoulder Merino Wool Top
Flore Flore Angie Cotton Tank
Faux Fur Feelings
Faux fur, whether as a trim, accent or all-over statement, was a standout on the AW25 runway. It’s also a smart way to experiment with mixing black and brown. Give your classic black wool coat a tactile update by adding a faux fur scarf, collar, or even cuffs for instant texture and warmth.
Whistles Black Lori Longline Coat
Weekend Max Mara Soft Textured scarf
Winter Boho
Embody Chemena Kamali’s ‘Chloé girl’ with this balanced winter pairing. A lace-trimmed brown satin slip dress gains new toughness when styled with a rugged leather jacket. For extra warmth, layer a roll-neck or a cosy knitted cardigan underneath, and complete the look with stompy biker boots.
Stand Studio Ciara Jacket
Cos Lace-Trimmed Satin Slip Dress
Skirt The Rules
A statement brown leather skirt leans into the season’s ongoing lust for chocolate tones. Add a preppy twist with a crisp collared polo top and finish with knee-high boots for an easy-yet-elevated everyday look.
Agolde Amos Stretch-Lyocell Polo Shirt
The Frankie Shop Savil Leather Midi Skirt
Tailored And Tonal
A brilliant pair of brown tailored trousers will go with just about anything in your wardrobe (so if you don’t already own a pair, now’s the time to invest). Here, they look especially chic when styled with a sumptuous cashmere funnel-neck knit. Clean and understated, this look will become your entry route into quietly luxurious dressing.
Vince Funnel-Neck Cashmere Jumper
Arket Wide-Leg Tailored Trousers
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