Editor’s note: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana presented their first Dolce & Gabbana collection in 1985. To mark their 40th year in fashion, and as part of Vogue Runway’s ongoing efforts to document the history of fashion shows, we are closing out 2025 by adding two newly digitized shows from their ’90s heyday to the site. This spring 1996 collection was presented in Milan on October 8, 1995.
Imagine the Girl from Ipanema, only transported to Palermo and filtered through a Dolce & Gabbana lens—that’s the gist of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s spring 1996 collection. Within the context of their work, this is one of their more minimal shows, featuring many monotone looks.
Linda Evangelista opened in a sleeveless, hooded knit column carrying a straw basket, looking like the very definition of resort, southern-Italian style. What followed were iterations of the look, each one revealing more skin through side slits or even higher hems. The shorter the dress, the closer to God? The mini-est of them all was accessorized with a cross as if anticipating penance.
Suiting got a summery makeover when paired with midriff-baring tops, and fedoras provided a counterpoint to the snoodlike head coverings and chin-tied headscarves. Most surprising were the nautical looks—navy and white or striped. These managed to hold their own among the animal prints that (close to the end of the show) were paired to clash with floral beaded pieces that had a vintage sensibility. The same could be said of a series of black looks with tulle ruffles at the hem.