When British writer Patrick Leigh Fermor wrote Mani: Travels in the Southern Peloponnese about his exploration, along with his wife Joan, of Greece’s Deep Mani region in 1951, he could never have imagined that this isolated area would one day be accessible to visitors.
On exploring the region – the middle of three “fingers” that dangle from Greece’s mainland – and recording his extraordinary journeys, he remarked that he “felt like staying there forever”. And he did, overseeing the construction of a stone house over a cliff near Kardamyli where he lived for much of his life.
The Leigh Fermors’ explorations were largely done on foot along kalderimi (donkey paths), some of which are sealed roads today. While it’s easy to drive much of this winding route, it remains enticingly remote: rock-covered mountains plunge into the sea; pebbled coves punctuate the coastline; and the scent of wild flowers drifts in the breeze.
In Leigh Fermor’s words, “every rock and stream [here] is a myth”. But nothing is more surreal than the narrow towers that appear over the horizon, a kind of ancient elongated skyscraper made of stone blocks.
Between the 17th and 19th centuries, feuding aristocratic Maniot clans, competing for resources (and thus power), attempted to out-build and then out-topple each other’s homes. By the time the Leigh Fermors crossed the area, most of the towers were abandoned and dilapidated.
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While this is no longer the case, much of the Mani landscape remains unchanged, and the route makes for a glorious road trip.
Along the way you can pop your head into tiny Byzantine chapels, hike along rugged trails and wander among wildflowers that somehow survive in this otherwise arid terrain. And, this being Greece, you can gorge on grilled octopus at seaside eateries or roasted goat in village tavernas.
Start in Itilo: visit the 16th-century Monastery of Dekoulou to soak up a series of rich-coloured and well-preserved frescoes before continuing south to Areopoli, a quaint village – and the region’s main administrative centre – that was named after Ares, the god of war.
Further south again are the Diros Caves, a set of flooded caves with vibrant blue waters and stalactites. Stick to the coast as you wind southwards to Mezapos Bay. A sheltered inlet heads around to the Tigani (‘frypan’ for its shape) peninsula, where the diamond is the tiny 12th-century Church of Panagia Agitria, one of hundreds of Byzantine churches that are concealed in the landscape.
Prominent fortress towers loom over the villages of Kita and Alika; many are now converted homes and hotels. These make for wonderful bases to explore the surrounds.
Take a break at the upmarket Veludo restaurant in the stunning seaside village of Gerolimenas, also home to some attractive boutique hotels. Nearby is the tiny, incense-filled Church of Agios Nikolaos.
You’ll pass pebbly coves before the road climbs to Vathia, a popular photo stop for the quintessential Mani: a cluster of towers perched on a ridge. Hike to the southerly tip of Cape Tenaro (90 minutes return) and don’t miss the Roman mosaics en route. The nearby Porto Kagio, set on a perfect horseshoe bay below a series of cliffs, has lost its shine as a pristine inlet (it’s popular among yachties and day visitors) but it’s a handy lunch spot.
For swimming, the clear waters at Marathos, near Kokkala, is beautiful. And finally, a great way to finish is by feasting at the waterside tavern Alipa, overlooking a quaint fishing cove.
If, at the end of the day, you feel the magic of the Mani and, like Leigh Fermor, want to stay? Tap into the Greek “pi” (P): pray to Plutus, the god of prosperity. And look for an important sign: “Poleitai”. It means “For Sale”.
THE DETAILS
VISIT
For a peek at the gorgeous mid-century-style Leigh Fermor house in Kalamitsi, near Kardamyli, you can visit the premises for one hour from noon (Mondays, June to September, and Thursdays at 11am, October to May) – the Leigh Fermors donated their house to the Benaki Museum. See benaki.org.
If you can’t pull yourself away from the house’s glorious Moorish influences, books and artworks and stunning coastal garden, you can rent the house. See ariahotels.gr
DRIVE
You’ll need a car to do this winding journey. Kalamata is the most convenient place for car rental and access to the Mani. This route (excluding Kalamata to Itilo) is around 100 kilometres and, with the stops, takes a full day; two days is ideal.
FLY
Emirates flies to Athens (via Dubai) from Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane, Adelaide and Perth. See emirates.com
MORE
visitgreece.gr
The writer travelled at her own expense.
Travel writer Kate Armstrong divides her time between the US, Mexico and Europe exploring places and subjects that spark her interest: culture, cuisine, cruises and anything offbeat. She usually travels solo.