Illustration by The Globe and Mail/Jason Frank R
Off Duty is a series of lively conversations with influential people, from CEOs to celebrities, on life, work and the art of taking time off.
Thirty years ago, the fashion documentary Unzipped offered a front-row seat to the chaotic brilliance of New York-based designer Isaac Mizrahi. His influence still hits hard, shaping not just his generation but the ones that followed. From his 1991 backless, camo Desert Storm dress – a nod to the Gulf War – to his 2011 collection of poodle-inspired, pastry-shaped gowns, Mizrahi’s talent for balancing the sassy with the serious remains unmatched.
His business acumen is just as sharp as his tailoring. He pioneered collaborations with Target, Liz Claiborne, Chevy and QVC long before luxe labels such as Versace and Louis Vuitton teamed up with fast-fashion conglomerates.
Though his ready-to-wear line closed in 1998 before coming back in 2009, his pieces continue to be coveted by a new generation of style hunters: Zendaya owns 15 archival pieces and Valentina Pinault made her first People magazine headline by wearing a vintage Mizrahi red confection borrowed from her mom (Salma Hayek).
Mizrahi, now 64, has built several careers beyond the runway – writing a bestselling autobiography (2019’s I.M.), performing cabaret for more than two decades and co-producing television series such as Mid-Century Modern and The Fashion Show.
His latest onstage spectacle, A Holiday Fruitcake, comes to Toronto’s Koerner Hall on Dec. 12. A hybrid of memoir, monologue, concert and cabaret, Mizrahi’s theatrical musings mirror his multifaceted existence. In the weeks leading up to his only Canadian date, Mizrahi spoke candidly about a life defined by the exhilaration of never truly living in the moment.
On stage, which artist do you feel is always with you in spirit?
Liza Minnelli – I made costumes for her and she’d always come to see me sing. She helped me with stage fright: Backstage, I panicked, and she asked my favourite food. I told her it was mint chocolate chip. She said, “Three hours from now, you’ll be in bed eating it – so who cares?” Now I think of ice cream whenever I get nervous.
What other life lessons did you learn from style icons like Liza?
The skill to listen but also stand my ground. Liza is a master collaborator – she listens. I’ve worked with [Audrey] Hepburn, [Barbara] Streisand, Oprah – the smart ones pay attention, trust you and know you’re the expert. The ones who don’t, I don’t work with again. I always look up to Sandra Bernhard – she’s fearless, never cashes in or says what she doesn’t mean.
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Outside of New York, which cities have drawn out another side of who you are?
I love Vegas. Honey, if you see Celine Dion there, it’ll change your life. You have to dive in head first and buy tickets to a dozen shows. You’ll see five amazing shows and seven horrifying ones, and you’ll leave affected by the good, the bad, the brilliant and the really awful.
One of your favourite books is White Houses by Amy Bloom. What do you make of the White House getting demolished for a ballroom?
It’s just terrible but it’s the least of my worries. We lost part of Notre Dame and rebuilt it. We’ll bring the wing back when Trump is gone – hopefully soon. I talk a lot about it in my show but darling, I refuse to get depressed by his tackiness.
In your 2019 memoir, I.M., you write about your mother’s fixation with dyeing her shoes to match her sweaters. What did growing up with that do to you?
My mother was a great storyteller when it came to her clothes and was very influential. I do have to say, that by not listening to her, I also learned a lot about myself. I was really into Jackie O’s particular, preppy looks – which we both loved – but my mother never supported my desire to perform, only to design. In many ways, I did the first to please her.
You get annual tarot card readings from Canadian fashion designer Trevor Ballin, who is currently at Celine. What do his visions offer?
Clarity. Trevor makes me feel like I’m not insane. The cards often have resolution to problems and I love that. Sometimes I take more from a psychic than from therapy. A therapist listens; a psychic tells you what’s going to happen.
Unzipped celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. In it, you spend time with all the supermodels. What kind of education did you get from that?
Naomi [Campbell] was always late and crazy, but the most beautiful woman alive. She taught me what I’d put up with for beauty. Linda [Evangelista] was wickedly funny and full of confidence. She loved my clothes, had this outstanding bill [invoice] but she showed me how to walk into a room like you own it. Cindy [Crawford] was so smart and appealed to everyone so she was the epitome of likeable, which is such a skill. Christy [Turlington] was the perfect woman: professional, kind, First Lady energy.
On your Hello Isaac podcast, you said being present isn’t an option for you – that you’re always thinking of tomorrow. Has that changed?
I’ve never lived in the moment. I don’t know if I can.
Favourite meal in New York?
I can’t sit through four-hour meals any more – just give me good food and let’s move. In New York, I’ll go to Il Cantinori because it’s fast. I order Branzino, roasted potatoes, a Caesar salad and the cookie plate and then I’m gone.
After Toronto, you start your annual residency at the Carlyle Hotel, a venue where Eartha Kitt is revered. You had such pivotal scenes with her in Unzipped – does her artistry still fuel you?
I worshipped Eartha Kitt. I saw her at the Carlyle many times. She faced so much oppression, but she rose to the occasion every time – in the most fabulous way. She overcame so much and carried this incredible optimism. This will be my 10th anniversary at the Carlyle, and I’m still trying to follow her lead.
This interview has been edited for clarity.