A Soft Re-Launch
Review of Joseph Fall 2026 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
In a much-anticipated return to the schedule for Mario Arena, Jospeh showed much promise in its experimentation with maximalist texture, but an over-reliance on effortless looks that will already appeal to their loyal customer felt like a missed opportunity to return to the London stage with a strong statement of intent.
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Soft sculptures, Effortless Intent
After a nine-year hiatus from London fashion week, Joseph returned to the runway. Under the creative direction of Mario Arena the contemporary luxury brand, that can claim Louise Trotter as an alumnus, presented a collection that was inherently focussed on the realities of operating in a volatile market. A market where luxury spending has protracted and the need to zero-in on customers needs has become paramount.
Today’s notes, neatly placed on each seat, spoke of ‘the art of sculpture’ and ‘Finding Form Where Form Does Not Exist.’ A promising proposition for what was to come, yet while the show made a promising start (the second look out was an ASMR dream, made up of dozens of shell-like spikes sewn onto a sweater set that made a rhythmically pleasing sound which reverberated around the space) there was a sense that the need to provide desirable wardrobe options for the Joseph woman won out over stepping into new territory with maximalist silhouettes.
The designers ode to the artistic practice of sculpture was evident in his application of deep folds, gifting fluffy scoop necks a daringly sexy edge as their openings dipped towards the naval. But this desire to want to ‘push the boundaries’ as outlined in the notes, only came through in short bursts, which if explored further (there is always next season) could once again put Joseph on the map as a must-see London show.
THE WRAP UP
In the moments when Arena let go of the reigns and leaned more confidently into decorative surfaces and hyper-tactility, you could truly see the evidence of the fresh perspective this time away from the runway has given the designer. And while the bottom line will be a growing concern for many brands who occupy a similar space to Joseph, next season will benefit from a push beyond the boundaries.
