Toby Bateman, CEO, Mr Porter
What watch are you wearing?
I’m wearing a 1972 Rolex Submariner, reference 1680.
Tell us about your watch.
Collectors call it the ‘red sub’ because the word ‘Submariner’ is stamped in red text on the dial. The 1680 was also the first Submariner model to feature a date window. The hands and bezel have been replaced at some point, so they’re not original to the watch.
How did you come to own it?
I bought it around seven years ago from my friend and colleague Jeremy Langmead [Mr Porter’s brand director]. Interestingly, he had originally purchased it from Adam Brown, the founder of Orlebar Brown, when Adam was raising funds to launch the brand [which makes swimwear]. I’m its third custodian within the fashion industry.
What’s the story behind it?
It’s easy to dive deep into the details of vintage Rolexes, which is probably why there are so many enthusiasts. This particular model features a Mark IV dial configuration, the first model to list the depth with feet first instead of metres. You can identify the Mark IV by the misalignment of the cross on the ‘f’ of ‘feet’ with the cross on the ‘t’. Additionally, the ‘6’ numerals on this model are known as ‘open sixes’. The dial on mine is in especially good condition, with hour markers that have developed a beautiful yellow patina over time.
What do you love about it and why is it your favourite?
I think what I love most is that it’s an iconic watch design and model, worn by everyone from James Bond and Steve McQueen to Jacques Cousteau. I find vintage watches, especially Rolex models, far more interesting than new ones. Plus, I admit I enjoy geeking out over the details.
When do you wear it and what do you wear it with?
There are no rules about when to wear it. I’m not one for dressing rules, full stop. I wear it just as easily with jeans and a T-shirt as I do with a tuxedo.
What would be a dream watch for you to own?
One day I’d like to own a vintage gold Patek Philippe, perhaps a 1940s chronograph, like the reference 1463.