Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2026 officially kicked off, riding the residual adrenaline of the Winter Olympics to transform the city, this time, into a fashion arena. With 52 runway shows on the calendar, the industry is focused on big transitions that see some of the world’s most influential designers taking their first steps into global luxury names.
The week opened with a homecoming as Maria Grazia Chiuri delivered her debut collection as Fendi’s chief creative officer on. Now, the momentum shifts toward Marni, where Meryll Rogge will introduce her inaugural vision for the label, followed by the week’s most anticipated milestone: Demna’s first physical runway show for Gucci. While these debuts anchor the schedule and keep us scrolling, the “sophomore surge” is equally compelling including Simone Bellotti at Jil Sander, David Koma at Blumarine and Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta.
Elsewhere, we’re excited to see GCDS‘ 10th anniversary show, Ferrari‘s high-speed silhouettes and AVAVAV‘s transition to the presentation format. From big collaborations to impressive debuts, continue reading for our favorite FW26 showcases, so far.
Before you go, check out our London Fashion Week highlights.
50,000 Reasons to Love Diesel
For FW26, Diesel staged a show as the aftermath of a five decade party. Creative director Glenn Martens mined the house archive, surrounding the runway with 50,000 original pieces that traced the label’s hedonistic history back to 1978. The clothes captured the aura of the “morning after.” Denim was treated with resin to hold heavy creases as if worn for days… and nights on end. Jersey tops were built in double layers so they sat twisted on the body while fur coats couldn’t decide what color they were, in the best way possible. For accessories and footwear, the new D One bag came with transformable buckle straps, while sculpted pumps, boots and the debut Closer watch pushed Diesel further into statement territory.
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Fendi Debut
MM6 Maison Margiela’s Commuter Couture
Last season, MM6 Maison Margiela hit the city streets. For FW26? It arrived at Milano Centrale, the city’s largest train station, to present a collection packed with urgency. Models moved with the pace of commuters in a hurry, coats slung, collars up, as if departure boards were about to flicker. An equestrian current ran throughout the collection, a subtle nod to the Year of the Horse. Sweaters and crisp collared shirts were emblazoned with horse motifs, some in portrait mode, others distorted and abstracted as if caught mid gallop. Longline tailoring carried a saddle sharpness through the shoulder, while cinched waists and elongated silhouettes suggested riding coats reimagined for the urban rider.
Jil Sander’s Fabric in Excess
For his second collection at Jil Sander, creative director Simone Bellotti turned to Hamburg and the intimacy of Anders Petersen’s Café Lehmitz portraits. The result was tailoring cut slim and exact, the house signature, of course. But cutting through this slimness, there was a subtle experimentation with fabric, some pieces voluminous like duvets, offering movement without tipping into true oversize territory. Collars slipped from beneath coats, jackets flared gently at the back, dresses exposed the shoulder and skirts opened with curved slits. The collection was assuredly minimal. At Jil Sander, minimalism never reads as boring.