Since launching menswear in 2024, Ladislav Zdút and his team have been working a single theme throughout a given season, which means this ready-to-wear collection, like the menswear one that preceded it, considered the work of Agnes Martin, whose paintings will soon be on view at the Dia Beacon.
“Quiet authority is the main motto,” said Zdút when discussing the men’s line; that strength was undermined here by the choice to accessorize the women’s line with shiny pink toe shoes, which felt aggressively feminine and frou-frou in a collection where the stated aim was to focus on “the power of understatement.” The silky fluid monochrome looks in pastel hues felt most painterly and on point, leaving the rest of the collection to hang out of context.