Fashion can be back-breaking work, and IB Kamara knows that firsthand. For this jaunty collection inspired by the wardrobe of Miles Davis, he spent hours digging through the late musician’s archive in Los Angeles. It’s a big one, and yet to be properly organized, which meant Kamara spent much of his time hunched over, and digging through boxes.
By the end, his back hurt but it was worth the trouble. He uncovered so many treasures belonging to the musician, and learned a lot about Betty Davis, the funk singer and model to whom Davis was briefly married. She influenced Davis’ work enormously, and Kamara loved her style.
He drew on both wardrobes for this collection which had a sporty edge — this is Off-White after all — and a groovy 1970s air.
Kamara said Davis “was able to mix a lot of separates at a time when men in the jazz were dressed in suits. He’d go on stage in shiny leather pants and a shirt. And I thought that was interesting because that’s how we dress now,” said Kamara, adding that Davis loved dressing up.
In the archive he found “Japanese brands that no longer exist,” which Davis picked up on his many visits to the country. “And, apparently, he changed his clothes five times a day,” said Kamara.
Highlights included a load of flocked or distressed denim with bleach-y white spots. Kamara worked the fabric into long curvy coats with oversized grommets; low-slung flares with utility pockets, and tailored jackets with wide lapels. Kamara paired those pieces with silk polka dot blouses (Davis loved a dot), T-shirts with the words “Yesternow,” knitted hoodies and zip-front sweaters in cobalt or yellow.
Betty’s style, too, came through loud and clear. “She was obsessed with lace. In 1967 and 1968 she was performing wearing lace and boots, which was so provocative for that time. You just don’t do that at the time,” he said.
Models channeled her look wearing slipdresses in arresting color combinations, gray with yellow lace or burgundy with contrasting cobalt. Saucy black tap pants, and little nylon jackets, had bright green lace details.
Lovely, lace-edged dresses with bandage-style wraps at the bodice and long cutout sleeves had a sportier feel. They’ll look terrific with trainers, flat sandals or ballerinas.
Kamara said he’s loving his work, and feels like he’s found his voice. He’s moving to the beat of the brand, which he said “represents everyone. I’m having fun just making clothes.”