Behind every great Creative Director in this day and age is an even greater woman – namely, Phoebe Philo.
The former creative director known for minimalist makeover of woman wardrobes, both at Chloé (2001-2006) and Céline (2008-2017), before starting her own eponymous brand to the clamour of many, in 2021. Having “worked under Phoebe Philo” in your biography is practically a golden ticket to the top of a major fashion house. She’s been dubbed mother of the industry (she was, let’s not forget, the first woman ever to take maternity leave whilst running a major Parisian Maison). So, it doesn’t come as a surprise she’s the one who nurtured those who are now going on to creatively lead capital F Fashion.
If her enduring design ethos wasn’t a testament to her genius, perhaps her ever-evolving list of protégés heading up major fashion houses are. Keep scrolling to find out who those are.
Drew Henry of Courrèges
The latest addition to the roster, the South-African designer began his career under Philo at Céline in 2014, and rejoined paths with her as Head of Design at her namesake brand, after a stint as Design Director at J.W. Anderson.
Matthieu Blazy of Chanel
Most people know Blazy from his stellar run at Bottega Veneta. But prior to that, the Belgian creator spent his time in 2014 as the Senior Designer at Céline. Bonus points for knowing his education under Raf Simons (another parental figure of fashion), and Daniel Lee, who, the next slide will let you know, was another of Philo’s design offspring.
Daniel Lee of Burberry
From interning at Maison Margiela to taking the reins at the British heritage powerhouse, there was a studious Philo pit stop on the way. Notably in 2012, when he left Donna Karen to join the bubbling army of designers over at Céline, where he eventually became the Director of Ready-to-Wear.
Michael Rider of Celine
A homecoming in a musical-chairs-of-the-industry way, Rider is now at the reins of the house he held the Design Director title for a decade, during Philo’s tenure.
Chemena Kamali of Chloé
Another homecoming of sorts, Kamali headed to the Parisian house in the mid 2000s after wrapping up her Central Saint Martin’s education, beginning her career alongside Philo’s first steps at creative domination.
Peter Do formerly at Helmut Lang
An eponymous brand and a Creative Director position at a legacy brand pretty much sums up the success of a Philo disciple. For the Vietnamese-born, New York-based designer, it was after bagging the LVMH Graduate Prize in 2014 that he joined the ready-to-wear force at Céline. The proof is in the cut.
Johnny Coca formerly at Mulberry
The accessories designer to be reckoned with, rose to prominence for his time at Louis Vuitton – firstly, by joining the leather goods team in 1996, and secondly, rejoining the team under Nicholas Ghesquière. But the true testament to the power of his craft? The title of Head of Design for leather goods, accessories, footwear, and jewellery at… you guessed it, Philo’s Céline.
Words — Juliette Eleuterio