It is one of the major, highly anticipated events of the Fall/Winter 2026-2027 Paris Fashion Week. Designer Pieter Mulier’s final runway show for Alaïa marks the end of an era for the great fashion house…
What legacy for Pieter Mulier?
Pieter Mulier is a discreet designer. He is among the most respected figures in the fashion world, widely praised for his rigor and aesthetic vision, which remains constant and impervious to trends. Appointed artistic director of Alaïa in 2021, the Belgian designer quietly stepped into his position and delivered, season after season, acclaimed collections, centered on one obsession – the perfect construction of garments. Thus, he opened a fascinating and demanding dialogue between fabrics and cuts.
As the first designer to succeed founder Azzedine Alaïa, who passed away in 2017, Pieter Mulier thus ensured a smooth transition and ushered the house into a contemporary era, while remaining faithful to its deeply couture identity. Yet, last January, Versace announced the appointment of Pieter Mulier at the head of its collections. The news came as yet another shockwave in fashion, after the big turnover in the creative direction of major luxury houses. This Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show would therefore be his last for Alaïa. In July 2026, a new adventure at Versace will begin.
Highly symbolic, the event brought together many guests. Some were already nostalgic of his work for the brand and eager to attend and applaud his final moments in Paris. Inside the former Fondation Cartier, large screens hung on the building’s glass walls continuously displayed photographic portraits of all the members of the house’s ateliers, captured by Keizo Kitajima. That tribute to the skilled hands who have accompanied the designer for several years, was also echoed in the invitation to the show itself… A DIY leather pattern outlining a female bust. Simple, yet very meaningful.
A simple, yet sophisticated show
This idea is indeed conveyed throughout Pieter Mulier‘s final collection, whose simplicity highlights the mastery of tailoring and the beauty of the fabrics. Somewhat distinct from previous Alaïa shows, usually defined by vibrant colors and surreal volumes, this Fall/Winter 2026-2027 wardrobe focuses instead on fitted, bodycon pieces. Each silhouette seems tailor-made for every model.
“Stripped-back, reduced to the very essence of Alaïa. It is a reflection both on and through Azzedine’s work, marked by traces of myself. The passing of my time here,” the designer explains in his show notes. Form-fitting dresses abound, jackets shape the chest, and the chromatic palette centers on neutral tones, returning to the shades of black, brown, and deep purple that typically run through the house’s wardrobe. Each silhouette reflects Pieter Mulier’s vision and rigor. His architectural training and long collaboration with Raf Simons continue to inform his minimal, masterful creations.
No jewellery, bag, or accessory comes to distract attention from the looks of this final show. The garment stands entirely on its own, thanks to its sumptuous fabrics and perfect cut. Perhaps this is Pieter Mulier‘s true legacy and strength at Alaïa. His successor, still unknown for now, will carry that spirit forward in the seasons to come…
All the looks from the Alaïa Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show
