Roksanda Ilinčić broadened her offer this season with a new emphasis on tailored clothing, arguing that, in the current market, customers want “special, occasion pieces, or versatile, easy, practical ones. There is no space for the middle ground.”
Drawing inspiration from the late Venetian architect Carlo Scarpa, she delivered a collection that nodded to the architect’s blend of brutalism and Art Deco, and to his embrace of natural landscapes — turquoise pools of water, expanses of green and sunny skies.
Tailoring came in the form of sculptural jackets with nipped waists and big, circular cutout backs. Some jackets had secret slots on the lapel so clients could add long, colorful silk scarves. Others were more casual, with gathered waists and fabric belts, while black tuxedo styles had fil coupé details, and pops of color here and there.
Ilinčić, who is known for her dramatic dresses, capes and skirts and bold color palette, also delivered a large dose of drama for evening, red carpet and special occasions.
There were draped, pinned or pleated taffeta dresses in cobalt and apple green; languid red carpet gowns in highlighter pink, and a burgundy column, which the designer paired with a long salmon-pink scarf.
A structured, black sleeveless dress with a wide skirt in the style of Marie Antoinette came with arty patches of fil coupé and flashes of cobalt and white.
Ilinčić also looked to replicate the effect of rippling water and greenery on the surface of a pond, with abstract prints. They spilled over strappy dresses and three-quarter length skirts meant for layering under those all-important new jackets.