A trip to Willy’s Wagyu is likely to come with a lesson on marbling grades, beef and how science can produce the exact amount of desired fat content in a steak.
Willy’s Wagyu, 9015 E. 200 S., Zionsville, is a cattle ranch specializing in locally raised Wagyu beef. Owner Tim Wilson began his foray into cattle farming last spring.
“I’m a 62-year-old grandpa with a passion project,” he said.
Wagyu is a collective term for four breeds of Japanese beef cattle. The meat is known for its marbling, which are the white streaks of fat found within red meat. Marbling adds flavor and tenderness, according to the American Wagyu Association.
Willy’s Wagyu raises both full-blood wagyu and American wagyu reserve, which is produced by crossing Japanese wagyu with American Angus. The full-blood wagyu herd is registered with the American Wagyu Association, a membership organization consisting of farmers, chefs and restaurant owners that promote wagyu.
Wagyu cattle are genetically bred to produce the desired amount of marbling. Cuts of meat are rated on the Beef Marbling Scale with a numerical value. The higher the score, the more tender the cut.
The reserve line of cuts at Willy’s Wagyu grade at a 9 or higher, with 12 being highest score.
Wilson displays a poster in his store of the BMS scale. He’s happy to explain it to customers.
Wilson worked with Purdue University on 300 embryos for his herd. Using genetic engineering, he raises cattle to have a desired fat content, ensuring good marbling. He said the genetics can be traced back to Japan. The breeding program facilitates consistent marbling.
Wilson partnered with Purdue on a proprietary feed blend that also contributes to quality of the meat.
“There’s a lot of cool, cutting-edge stuff going on with the animal,” he said.
Wilson said the high-fat content is a typical criticism of wagyu beef, but he likens it to the fats found in olive oil and salmon.
“When you’re thinking about healthy fats, that’s what we’re talking about,” he said.
Wagyu beef contains monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats, like omega-3 fatty acids, which are good for heart, brain and joint health, according to Cleveland Clinic.
Cattle are harvested for 22 months, with a weight target of 1,375 pounds. Metrics are based on marbling preferences.
Willy’s Wagyu products include ground beef, brisket, tri-tips, sirloins, ribeyes, tallow, filets and chuck roasts. Wilson said the value cuts are popular.
“We’ve got the whole cow,” he said.
The ranch also offers educational opportunities. Wilson wants to expand those to include having kids on-site for calving. He’s also considering delivery service.
Willy’s Wagyu is still in the build-out phase as Wilson plans to build a home on the property and reclaim much of the property for pasture. Cattle graze in the area nestled in the back part of the property.
The storefront is being renovated to include bathrooms and food preparation space. The additions will allow Wilson to offer samples and sell eggs and honey from local farmers.
“Our goal is to be a source of local products,” he said.
Willy’s Wagyu is open from noon to 6 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday. Customers can also order online at willyswagyu.com/.
INFO BOX
Brick Street Smoke Off
Willy’s Wagyu, in partnership with the Zionsville Chamber of Commerce, will host a cooking competition May 2 at Brick Street Market..
Five teams will compete to prepare meat provided and grown by Willy’s Wagyu. Cuts include New York strip, picanha and brisket point. Each team will prepare their own side dish as well. A panel of community members, including Matt Taylor, voice of the Indianapolis Colts, and Zionsville City Council member Evan Norris , will serve as judges who will determine the top teams.
“We’re trying to build camaraderie in the community … over family-centered meals,” said Tim Wilson, owner of Willy’s Wagyu. “We’re trying to find Zionsville’s best pit master.”
The smoke-off will take place throughout the morning and afternoon with a grand champion named at 3:30 p.m.
Willy’s Wagyu will have its products for sale during Brick Street. Sliders will be available.
