Every year during New York Fashion Week, we’re inundated with tepid takes about how NYFW is dead. To the contrary, I’d argue that the fashion scene in New York is very much alive and well—and a constant barometer for what women actually want to wear in their day-to-day life.
Now that Fashion Month is over, I want to highlight five smaller New York-based brands that are constantly redefining wearable fashion, while still being exciting and aspirational.
Lafayette 148
As its name suggests, Lafayette 148 is a SoHo staple. The designs represent the woman I want to be: extremely sharp, quintessentially classic, but still playful.
I wore a full look out one day and have never gotten more compliments on my coat. Their wool outerwear is insanely high-quality and features two pieces: an easy-to-toss-on, snap-closure outer layer and a detachable poncho/scarf that drapes effortlessly over for a warm but stylish look. Underneath I opted for a super fun embellished tulle skirt and a black leather jacket that screams luxury.
Much of their new season, which I had the pleasure of previewing, rides the line between comfort and sophisticated style. It’s hard not to want to be the woman the brand represents: she has a 401k but isn’t afraid to spend a Saturday night at the pool table of a dive bar.
(Image credit: Vivian Li)
(Image credit: Vivian Li)
(Image credit: Vivian Li)
Lafayette 148
Cotton-Linen Twill Funnel Neck Cargo Jacket
Lafayette 148
Nappa Lambskin Leather Patch Pocket Jacket
Lafayette 148
Wool-Cashmere Double Face Oversized Coat & Detachable Poncho
Lafayette 148
Hand Beaded Silk Organza Shift Dress
Colleen Allen
Colleen Allen and her eponymous label debuted relatively recently. Still, it’s already amassed an extremely loyal following of stylists with impeccable taste and celebrities who want her take on red-carpet dressing.
I love her use of velvets in a contemporary, sexy way and her integration of exaggerated hips and shoulders as a way to bring this idea of a high-society woman to the streets of downtown New York. It’s hard to describe what the collections represent without personifying the clothing. Allen is someone who does her research—who visits the library to leaf through fashion archives, who takes the time to reupholster a vintage chaise for her studio apartment. I’m particularly drawn to the rich purples of her duster coats and the pops of orange in an otherwise very classic color palette. Also, a special mention goes to this fanny pack-style bag that doubles as a late Victorian/ early Edwardian hip pad.
(Image credit: Vivian Li)
(Image credit: Vivian Li)
Colleen Allen
Paneled Fleece Jacket
Colleen Allen
Draped Cotton Velvet Shawl Top
Meruert Tolegen
Consistently the most underrated designer in my opinion, Meruert Tolegen is in her own league when it comes to collections of understated drama. The brand loves playing with exaggerated silhouettes that masterfully avoid being too costume-y to wear. The brand is feminine but exudes cool confidence and is truly masterful when it comes to creating pieces of art that modern women want to wear. Their new flagship is in SoHo, and I absolutely recommend trying things on in real life.
(Image credit: Vivian Li)
(Image credit: Vivian Li)
(Image credit: Vivian Li)
Meruert Tolegen
Double Cup Floral Jacquard Midi Dress
Meruert Tolegen
Pleated Plaid Corset Midi Skirt
Sandy Liang
Okay, “underrated” may not be the word to describe Sandy Liang; everyone recognizes the iconic Orchard Street-based designer for her whimsical collections that tap into nostalgic references like Kiki’s Delivery Service and Sailor Moon. However, I do want to highlight the way Sandy has been able to expand upon the bow and create a new generation of playful but still pragmatic design.
To me, the underrated part of being a Sandy girl is the fact that everything is extremely practical. Her shoes, like the newly released sneaker flats, are made with the girl on the go in mind. While many pieces, like this sweater on a sweater, are tongue-in-cheek, at the end of the day it’s still a thick winter sweater you can toss on with some jeans or a smart skirt. That’s what makes the brand so quintessentially New York to me—because in a city of working women and subway commuting, the wearability of clothing comes first.
(Image credit: Vivian Li)
(Image credit: Vivian Li)
(Image credit: Vivian Li)
Sandy Liang
Pink Ballerina Sneakers
Sandy Liang
Mott Crop Skirt Pants
Sandy Liang
Polar Fleece Miniskirt
Buci NYC
Stepping into the Buci boutique in the Lower East Side feels like a portal into another era of shopping, when playing dress-up and touching every fabric was more important than purchasing something as soon as possible. Imagine weightless silk scarves, little lace dresses with cutouts that are perfectly placed, and vintage hatboxes.
When I wore this dusty blue silk maxi with its matching poncho this season to a Miu Miu short film screening, I had multiple people stop me to say they adored the look. Everything at Buci feels like a dream; they fundamentally understand what makes women feel beautiful.
(Image credit: Vivian Li)
(Image credit: Vivian Li)
(Image credit: Vivian Li)
Buci NYC
Ambrosia Knit Poncho
Buci NYC
Honeycrisp Poncho in Slate