On March 4th, 2026, the Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show took over Place Vendôme in Paris. Haider Ackermann masterfully crafted an elegant and sensual collection.
By Louise Menard.
A collection verging on nonchalance and sensuality
Glamorous, sensual, feline… This is how the Tom Ford woman by Haider Ackermann can be summed up. After a Spring/Summer 2026 collection, praised for the house’s signature porno-chic aesthetic, the Franco-Colombian designer chooses a different path this season. More casual than the previous one, this Fall/Winter 2025-2026 collection oscillates between a powerful erotic dimension and a new desire for comfort.
On Instagram, Tom Ford had already set the tone for this collection by revealing intoxicating photographs of model Kristen McMenamy a few days prior to the show. Staged in the style of Nymphomaniac (2013), Lars von Trier’s provocative film, the house’s muse appeared frozen in an unmistakably ecstatic contortion.
The tone was set… Yet, once the curtain had been lifted, an elegant sense of wisdom took over. Under a harsh light that contrasted with the dark atmosphere of the previous season, the silhouettes walked with confidence. The models adopted a poised walk, sometimes arrogant and unsettling. Faced with such a performance, the guests were enthusiastic as they discovered an almost ceremonial collection, stamped with the seal of Tom Ford.
Tom Ford’s fashion language becomes clearer
Presented as a short poem, Haider Ackermann’s show notes suggest more than they explain. “Come closer and see,” he concludes. In other words, look for yourself, observe carefully, and let the clothes guide you. A very Cruella-style coat, sharp tailoring for both women and men, pencil skirts, high heels, fine tights stamped with the TF logo… Tom Ford‘s identity radiates, anchoring the house’s codes even more firmly in the fashion imagination.
With a touch of irreverence, the waistline drops and diaphanous shirts come undone. PVC makes a surprise appearance here and there in a belted jacket or a long coat. As for denim, it is faded and crumpled, counterbalancing the leather-clad silhouettes that still dominate this season in various forms – crocodile, smooth, glossy. Haider Ackermann once again proves that he excels both in the art of seduction and of tailoring. His style is incisive, without ever being forced, and sensual without being indecent. The designer’s vision is perfectly on point.
All the looks from the Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show
