This is an episode of the Glossy Fashion Podcast, which features candid conversations about how today’s trends are shaping the future of the fashion industry. More from the series →
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On the Glossy Podcast, senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and international reporter Zofia Zwieglinska break down some of the biggest fashion news of the week.
This week, Zofia is wrapping up our fashion month coverage. Over the last few weeks, we’ve been speaking to buyers from major department stores about their takes on the shows and collections from designers in New York, London, Milan and, now, Paris.
Zofia is joined by Marc Rofsky, the buying director at Moda Operandi, to talk about the collections on display at Paris Fashion Week.
Moda has already begun rolling out this season’s Paris Fashion Week collections for customers to shop and pre-order on its site, so Rofsky has a good view of what trends and brands are popping this season. Below are a few highlights from the conversation, lightly edited for length and clarity.
The brands that stood out
Rofsky: “As the week progresses, more and more trunks are launching on the site. Clients are notified when a collection comes out from a brand they follow or they’ve shopped before, and some of them start shopping right away. Some clients prefer to wait until a critical mass of the season’s offerings are live before they shop.
We started launching Paris collections on the site this week, and more will come out through next week. We’re already seeing a really strong reaction to Dries van Noten. This is Julian Klausner’s third collection for the brand, and he continues to have a sharper vision for the house codes with rich fabrics and embroideries, and very feminine silhouettes that our clients are gravitating toward. We’re also seeing a great reaction to Gabriella Hearst, Balenciaga, Victoria Beckham and Chloé.”
Moda Operandi’s trends to watch
Rofsky: “In terms of trends, almost every collection had crocodile or crocodile-embossed leather, lots of velvet and jacquard, rich fabrics, embroideries, and a return to print. The color palette was a little dark, with some pops of royal purple, cherry red and dark cobalt — all colors our customers really gravitate toward. The silhouettes are becoming more feminine than in the last few years. One category that isn’t always our best is tailoring. In the past few seasons, there was a lot of boxy, oversized, menswear-inspired tailoring for women. But this season, the pendulum completely swung the other way. There was a lot more sharp, feminine tailoring, defined waists and even a peplum waist. Tom Ford did some incredible examples of that style, and we anticipate a big return to tailoring. Last year was a strong season for outerwear. Fall was all about shearling. This season, there were still touches of shearling, but definitely a move into more cloth outerwear. The cocoon coats from Balenciaga stood out.”