A new culinary conflict is brewing in the Eastern Mediterranean, as Greece moves to officially claim Patsas (tripe soup) as part of its National Intangible Cultural Heritage—a move that has already ruffled feathers in neighboring Turkey.
Whether served chondrokomenos (coarsely chopped) or psilokomenos (finely minced), and always seasoned with a generous kick of boukovo (chili flakes), vinegar, and skordostoumbi (crushed garlic), patsas is more than just a meal; it is a cultural institution, particularly in Thessaloniki.
The Greek bid for recognition of Patsas
Dimitris Tsarouchas, owner of one of Thessaloniki’s most historic patsatzidika (tripe shops), recently confirmed that a final, 12-page dossier has been submitted to the Greek Ministry of Culture. The goal? To have the “know-how” of patsas recognized domestically before elevating the bid to UNESCO.
The dossier, a collaboration with author Lena Oflidi, details everything from the sourcing of raw materials to the soup’s famed medicinal properties. “It is the only food containing 33.4% edible collagen,” Tsarouchas noted, emphasizing its history as the ultimate “stomach-settler” for late-night revelers.
The Turkish counter-claim
However, across the Aegean, the move is seen as another chapter in a long-standing rivalry over shared Ottoman-era flavors. In Turkey, the dish is known as işkembe çorbası and is deeply rooted in Anatolian tradition.
Turkish historians point to the 17th-century traveler Evliya Çelebi, who famously documented tripe and trotter vendors in the streets of Istanbul in his Seyahatnâme. For many in Turkey, the Greek bid feels like a repeat of the “Baklava and Yogurt wars,” where national identity is fought over the dinner table.
A shared heritage or stolen recipe?
The dispute highlights the “soft power” tensions of the Balkans and the Levant. Much like the ongoing legal battle between Germany and Turkey over the “Döner Kebab,” the patsas debate centers on who has the right to define the standards and history of a dish that has fed both nations for centuries.
For the masters in Thessaloniki, however, the mission is simple: “We want traditional Greek cuisine to take its rightful place,” says Tsarouchas. “So that the elders remember and the younger generation learns.”
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