From one of the first exits – a “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” little black dress – it was clear this collection was going to be another winner from this brand that specializes in making its customers look even wealthier than they already are.
Out came the dark topcoats worn over statement white collars, the trenches with Sherlock Holmes-style capes, with strong shoulders and epaulets, or with a satiny finish. They were all cut, buttoned and belted to precision, radiating the quiet luxury for which the brand is known.
Suits were strong-shouldered and spare. One dark, slim jacket came with a gold and jade brooch while another had a dusting of ostrich feathers down the front. A roomy evening suit had a single diamond clip on each lapel.
The weather, and the venue both helped. Rays of sunshine streamed through the big windows of The Row’s gilt-edged, mirrored showroom on Rue des Capucines, and waiters had just packed up their silver trays which were filled with drinks as guests arrived.
There was something cool about it, too. The music was retro – Billy Idol, The Cure and Paul McCartney and Wings – and the looks weren’t all so formal or polished.
Olive corduroy trousers or luxe white tracksuit bottoms flashed from under some of those finely tailored coats, while pencil skirts were paired with raw-edged, sheer organza blouses, some with contrast stitching. A V-neck sweater and long, sheer skirt made a fine couple.
The only things out of place here were the draped and wrapped dresses that looked as if they were made from white sheets. They had an odd, clinical look and disrupted the flow of an otherwise beautiful collection.