Rarely does a fashion season carry as much promise of change as Spring/Summer 2026. With a remarkable 15 designer debuts across the major houses, the industry waited with bated breath for something spectacular—a definitive changing of the guard, a bold staking of territory. How far would this rising generation go once it assumed full creative control?
Yet when the shift arrived, it was surprisingly measured. Whether it was Jonathan Anderson’s debut at Dior or Matthieu Blazy’s first outing for Chanel, this new class of creative directors appeared acutely aware of the legacies they inherited—and uninterested in overturning them. The notes accompanying Anderson’s debut Dior womenswear collection spoke of “an empathy with history, a willingness to decode its language… not to erase it, but to store it.”
That sentiment resonated across the Spring/Summer 2026 runways. Savoir-faire took centre stage, from leather goods at Hermès and Bottega Veneta to the crisp, delicate tailoring at Chanel. Archival signatures were revisited, house codes subtly recalibrated. It feels timely. Beyond creative musical chairs, the industry continues to grapple with tariffs, economic uncertainty, and the rise of artificial intelligence. By standing firm in craftsmanship and heritage, fashion anchors itself to something enduring. This season, reinvention lay in rediscovery.
Codes of Honour
For designers inheriting formidable legacies, the mandate was clear: reinterpret house codes without dismantling them. Jonathan Anderson opened his Dior debut with an airy bow-adorned gown before reworking the Bar jacket in Donegal tweed, its sculptural cut-outs signalling his subversive touch. At Chanel, Matthieu Blazy returned to the skirt suit, rendering it in sheer handwoven knit and subtly distorting the camellia motif. Elsewhere, craft spoke louder than symbolism. Louise Trotter refreshed Bottega Veneta’s intrecciato in serpentine coats and skirts, while at Celine, Michael Rider fused preppy American ease with silks that nodded to the Céline Vipiana era.
Drama Queens
Is quiet luxury finally waning? This season’s embrace of maximalism may take many forms—fringe, ruffles, statement skirts—but the message is consistent: drama has returned, and with conviction. Saint Laurent and Chanel made a compelling case for theatrical eveningwear, sending out voluminous nylon gowns and vibrant, feathered skirts. Givenchy and Chloé offered a more romantic interpretation, with frothy ruffles and soft plumes. For those less persuaded by overt sentimentality, Bottega Veneta countered with metallic-fringed jackets and skirts that felt precise rather than precious.
Twenties Redux
The flapper—long a symbol of 20th-century liberation—re-emerges for spring/summer 2026. In the 1920s, dropped waists and swaying hemlines signalled newfound freedom; a century later, they feel equally resonant. Today’s interpretation favours detail over costume. Chanel showcased intricate knitwork, while Tory Burch presented hand-seeded beading. At Ferragamo, Maximilian Davis charted a less familiar course, exploring African influences on the Art Deco movement through fluid silk shift dresses and sculptural geometric tailoring.
Hips don’t lie
Maximalism extends beyond surface embellishment. One of the season’s most striking statements arrived in the exaggeration of silhouette—particularly at the hips. At times, the effect was subtle: the peplum flare of Dior’s Bar jacket, viscose ruffles accentuating a Max Mara midi skirt. Elsewhere, proportions edged toward the theatrical. At Dior, Jonathan Anderson draped jersey gowns over pronounced, 18th-century-inspired panniers. Simone Rocha, Erdem, and Jean Paul Gaultier focused on corsetry and structured hip padding to sculpt the waist-to-hip ratio. Whether a nod to historic tailoring or a commentary on contemporary body modification, the message was clear: in 2026, the focus shifts to the hip.
Fine Duning
The shifting sands of fashion have settled into a sun-bleached, windswept aesthetic for Spring/Summer 2026. Desert-inflected dressing emerges in myriad interpretations. Hermès and Acne Studios took a utilitarian approach, pairing khaki separates with leather harnesses and jackets. Chanel and Proenza Schouler went subtle, with an earthy palette of rich browns and sandy beige tones. The Middle Eastern influence was unmistakable. Elie Saab did not fully embrace cinematic spectacle, yet gauzy drapery and serpentine motifs underscored the designer’s Lebanese heritage.
Crop Culture
These definitely aren’t your mother’s crop tops. Prada approached the look with irreverence, pairing bra tops with suspender skirts that hovered precariously off the shoulders. Givenchy layered abbreviated tops beneath blazers and sheer blouses. Max Mara offered a more restrained alternative, styling bandeau tops with structured, midriff-accentuating belts. At Hermès, the interpretation felt thoughtful: slim leather brassières were balanced with printed silk carrés tucked discreetly beneath, tempering exposure with elegance.
Sheer Audacity
Transparency returned with nuance this season. When designers sent sheer dresses down the runway, the effect leaned toward sensuality rather than provocation. At Chanel, floral appliqué softened a translucent black column into something refined, while Louis Vuitton opened with a gauzy, billowing corset set that evoked vintage romance. At Givenchy, Sarah Burton sent a series of barely-there dresses down the runway, their vulnerability offset by silhouettes reminiscent of youthful party frocks.
This story was originally published on GRAZIA Singapore and has been repurposed here with permission.