On March 5th, 2026, at the Palais de Tokyo, Rick Owens unveiled his Fall/Winter 2026–2027 collection titled “Tower.” In a context marked by global tensions and conflicts, the American designer created around forty female, warrior-like silhouettes, combining sheath dresses with “cocoon” jackets conceived as an armor. A dark and powerful collection, where sensuality persists despite the shadow of war.
A context of political instability
In an international context marked by escalating conflicts and persistent political instability, the Californian designer seems to have temporarily abandoned the pacifist impulses that ran through his Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection, presented outside the Palais de Tokyo in June 2024.
On the catwalk, female silhouettes appear as true warriors. From the very first looks, imposing sheath dresses dominate the smoke-filled runway. They are crafted from austere and protective fabrics like leather, boiled wool and Kevlar. As Rick Owens reminds us, this synthetic fiber is five times stronger than steel. The fabric is often used in bulletproof vests.
Rick Owens’s combative femininity
As the show unfolds during Paris Fashion Week, the wardrobe becomes more nuanced, without ever losing its core message. Although the silhouettes may be intimidating, they remain deeply sensual. True to his taste for transgression, Rick Owens later introduces a few cut-out tops that subtly reveal the models’ bodies. Later on, leather jumpsuits turned into shorts, expose the models’ endless legs.
All the warriors embodying this Fall/Winter 2026–2027 collection stride on huge heeled boots in shades of black and khaki, fitted with snap buttons and multiple utility pockets. Their almost military allure evokes tactical gear, brilliantly reinterpreted by the Californian designer, who has been based in Paris since 2003.
A moving tribute to Marlene Dietrich
Behind this warrior imagery lies another, more unexpected inspiration – Marlene Dietrich. In a note addressed to the press, the designer evokes his long-standing admiration for the German actress and the many transformations that marked her life. “I have often spoken about my admiration for Marlene Dietrich and her dignity during the different stages of her life,” he explains. “She was an example of dedication and service during the war. She has always impressed me with her fascinating blend of morality and artifice, combined with a strong sense of responsibility and remarkable tenacity,” the designer adds.
This influence is obvious in several silhouettes. They almost seem staged like plays. “Cocoon” jackets, conceived as armours with dramatic volumes, imposing enveloping wool coats… The Rick Owens woman becomes a performer, fully aware of her power. It is a vibrant tribute to the heroic figure of Marlene Dietrich, who fought against Nazism during World War II.
Across this Fall/Winter 2026-2027 collection of 48 dark and powerful silhouettes, Rick Owens ultimately imagines a wardrobe that is both protective and theatrical. Even in the face of the current global chaos, fashion might still offer some sort of safe space where the show can go on…
All the looks from the Rick Owens Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show
